Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Festa della Republica and Via Appia Antica



All year we've wanted to go ride our bikes on the Via Appia Antica, the oldest existing road of the Roman Republic. The main part of "The Appian Way" which runs south from Rome, was started and finished in 312 BC. It was one of the earliest and strategically most important Roman roads of the ancient republic. It connected Rome to Brindisi, and the whole of Puglia in southeastern Italy. Today, there is beautiful ten mile stretch that starts near the Baths of Caracalla. The history of Rome is laid out along the Appia Antica, and there are a whole host of ancient sites to see.

The monuments along the Via Appia are as follows:
From the 1st to the 4th mile-- Porta Appia - the gate of the Aurelian Walls; Chiesa di Domine Quo Vadis (from the 9th century AD); San Sebastiano Fuori le Mura (4th century AD); Catacombs of St. Sebastian (2nd century AD); Circus Maxentius (306AD); Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella (50BC); Terme di Capo Bove (2nd century AD).

The fifth mile -- Mausoleum of the Orazi and Curiazi; Villa dei Quintili with nympheum, theater and baths; Mausoleum of Castel Rotondo

The 6th mile and beyond -- Minucia tomb; Torre Selce; Temple of Hercules; Berrettia di Prete; Mausoleum of Gallienus

Finally, today, on the holiday that celebrates the formation of the Italian republic, we decided to take a field trip to the Appia Antica. While the kids are out of school today, Charlotte did have swim practice this morning, and Josh went cycling. So it wasn't until they came home at around 11:30am, that we packed a picnic lunch and hit the road. Josh hooked up the bike rack to the car, and we drove to the south side of Rome.

Once we arrived, I couldn't believe we hadn't been here all year. It's an incredibly picturesque and beautiful area of Rome and, just as the name implies, very authentic and ancient looking. We drove as far as the Cecilia Matella Mausoleum, parked the car and had our picnic across the street in an overgrown field of flowers. Several newlyweds were having their wedding day photos taken. We sat next to an ancient church that is being restored. From Rome, this is as far as cars are allowed, so then we got on our bikes. Josh, Olivia and I had our own. Avery rode on the back of Josh's. We were going to rent one for Charlotte, but she was too tired, and cranky! and wanted to stay behind to rest in the car.

As we rode our bikes, we came upon one after another beautiful estate. It looked like they could have been small hotels with manicured gardens and a swimming pools, but they weren't. They were private homes. This is the Palm Beach of Rome. Who lives here? These are huge pieces of property -- especially so close to the city center. There were also a couple of commercial enterprises like a trattorias, snack bars, and a garden and flower store. Unfortunately, part of the road is closed for restoration so we could ride the whole of Via Appia Antica. But, I did notice that Olivia is really good on the bike, and especially impressive on the cobbles. It was okay that our ride was cut short since we had Charlotte back in the car. And, it looked like the nicest part of the day was behind us as the clouds began to roll in.

On the drive back, we stopped to check out the Celio park just inside the Aurelian Wall. It is just like an English style garden; a great future picnic spot. But today, everyone was so tired that once we got home, we all took a nap -- including me!

It was after 7pm by the time we woke up. Even though it wasn't Sunday,we were in the mood for Pizza (plus there was nothing in the fridge). Tonight, instead of staying local, we ventured out past Trastevere to La Gatta Mangiona -- an inconspicuous spot, and considered some of the best pizza in Rome. And, it was. The kids were begging for gelato. It was hard to refuse since the gelateria was just next door. What better way to cap of a holiday -- La Festa della Republica -- than by going out for pizza and gelato. We were sated.

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