Villa Doria Pamphilij aka Casino del Bel Respiro ... but can you get in?

I had it all arranged. Rita came over to babysit for Avery at 11am, so that the four of us could enjoy a remarkable tour of the Villa Doria Pamphilij in the Park of the same name. The Villa is private and only open to the public this one day a year during the settimana di bene cultura -- or at least, so I was told. We arrived at the park, and located the villa, but not the tour. I called 06 06 08. I was told the guide would meet us at the entrance to the park. I walked back to the entrance, and found the guide, who told me that the tour was not of the Villa but of the park itself. I called 06 06 08 again. They told me it was up to the guide. Altogether there seemed to be much confusion.

We were all disappointed not to be going inside to see this spectacular residence.

The gardens alone were a sight to behold. Designed by the sculptor Alessandro Algari of Bologna, the architecture appears unique for a Roman Palazzo -- it looks more like a French Chateau. The only other structure that gives a similar impression is Gallerie Borghese. The Villa, known as the Casino del Bel Respiro, was constructed from 1645 to 1647 after Cardinal Giambattista Pamphilij became Pope Innocent X.

So, instead of seeing the inside of the villa, we had a nice walk around the park, watched some of a soccer game going on, and got back in the car. We drove up the Gianicolo to have a look at the Fontana Acqua Paolo, and then onwards to Trastevere for lunch. Sunday in Trastevere is such a lovely time to sit outdoors and enjoy a languorous meal. The area is full of families and children. We had a great meal with the girls at the Ristorante La Tana de Noantri. Then we checked out the goings in the Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere before going inside the church. I've really come to enjoy popping into churches all over Rome.

Afterwards, we drove over to Prati to visit our new favorite gelateraia - Gelateria del Gracchi. Clearly, it's popular -- it's the first gelateria I've seen with a "take a number" system, just like at the deli counter!

At home, Avery was watching a show. The kids played for a while and then Josh took them out for a bike ride. Olivia's first ride on her new (used) bike. She really loves it. I spent time talking to my sister about how to get her husband and son home from Prague. Tod and Jake had been in Munich and Prague for a hockey tournament (and sightseeing) this past week, and were now one of the 7 million stranded passengers as most European airports were still closed as a result of the volcanic ash. There are no easy answers, as the path of the ash, and further disruptions are unknown. I wish they'd come to Rome so we could see them; Rome has one of the few open airports. But of course, all the transatlantic flights appear to be booked until late in the week.

We brought pizza in for dinner tonight.