For some reason it wasn't easy getting everyone up and out of the house this morning. We had wanted to get an early start so we could drive up to Cerveteri, enjoy lunch there, and still get Charlotte back to the pool in Rome by 2:15pm
Cerveteri, often called the city of the dead, was one of the most important cities of ancient Eturia - settled by Etruscans dating back as far as the 9th century B.C.! The Etruscans built parallel cities on opposing hillsides -- one for the living, and one for the dead. Today, the main attraction in visiting Cerveteri is the Banditaccia Necropolis - the largest burial ground -- which stretches over 2 km along a "street"(more like a path) called Via degli Inferi, or the Street of the Gods of the Underworld. When this Necropolis was established in the 9th century B.C., the tombs were pozzi, or well tombs for the burial of ashes in urns. Beginning in the 7th century, cremation became unfashionable, and the tombs became resting places - like rooms in Etruscan homes of that period - carved out of tufa rock. The aristocratic families had very elaborate tombs. The finest one that has been uncovered thus far, is called the Tomba Bella (Tomb of the Reliefs) and dates from between the 4th and 3rd centuries B. C., belonging to the Matuna family. This was the only tomb we saw that retained the colors painted on the walls, and included stucco reliefs of things the family would need in the next world such as games, utensils, and pets. Beds were carved into the niches for the family members to rest and had red silk pillows.
The necroplis itself looks like a whole series of beehive-shaped mounds, covered in grass, with the burial chambers carved out of tufa rock inside. We walked along the Via degli Inferi and in to many of the tombs in hopes of finding another that was as richly decorated as that of the Matuna family. While each series of tombs had small degrees of variance from one another -- one with a set of columns, one with an arched portico (as opposed to right angles), one with a beamed roof -- they really all began to blend together and became more of the same.
We still needed to get some lunch before our drive home. This was a taller task than we expected. The "living" side of Cerveteri was dead! Eventually, we found a tavola calda which looked rather beat, but turned out some really nice (and fast) food for us. They even treated us to a complimentary panne for dessert. Josh drove like Mario Andretti, and Charlotte arrived at the pool at 2:17pm. Not bad. We'd made it back from Cerveteri in 35 minutes!
It was a perfect way to end the day. And, a perfect way to end "Spring Break" ie. some time without the kids!
Cerveteri, often called the city of the dead, was one of the most important cities of ancient Eturia - settled by Etruscans dating back as far as the 9th century B.C.! The Etruscans built parallel cities on opposing hillsides -- one for the living, and one for the dead. Today, the main attraction in visiting Cerveteri is the Banditaccia Necropolis - the largest burial ground -- which stretches over 2 km along a "street"(more like a path) called Via degli Inferi, or the Street of the Gods of the Underworld. When this Necropolis was established in the 9th century B.C., the tombs were pozzi, or well tombs for the burial of ashes in urns. Beginning in the 7th century, cremation became unfashionable, and the tombs became resting places - like rooms in Etruscan homes of that period - carved out of tufa rock. The aristocratic families had very elaborate tombs. The finest one that has been uncovered thus far, is called the Tomba Bella (Tomb of the Reliefs) and dates from between the 4th and 3rd centuries B. C., belonging to the Matuna family. This was the only tomb we saw that retained the colors painted on the walls, and included stucco reliefs of things the family would need in the next world such as games, utensils, and pets. Beds were carved into the niches for the family members to rest and had red silk pillows.
It could have been a really great morning because the park-like terrain is fun to walk and climb. Avery and Olivia love hiking and climbing. The only problem was that while Avery was having fun running around, he tripped and fell and cut his hand. Unfortunately, this was early on in our visit, and then he proceeded to wail for the remainder of our time in the Necropolis. Later, walking a long a rock fence, Olivia was having fun imitating a kid from school, and when suddenly she fell off the wall while doing it. Apart from the injuries and crying, it was lovely.
We still needed to get some lunch before our drive home. This was a taller task than we expected. The "living" side of Cerveteri was dead! Eventually, we found a tavola calda which looked rather beat, but turned out some really nice (and fast) food for us. They even treated us to a complimentary panne for dessert. Josh drove like Mario Andretti, and Charlotte arrived at the pool at 2:17pm. Not bad. We'd made it back from Cerveteri in 35 minutes!
It was a gorgeous and sunny day. The thermometer in the car read 78 degrees. As such, I enjoyed our upstairs terrace for the remainder of the afternoon.
Before I knew it was 5pm. Josh took Avery to get the car washed before picking-up Charlotte. But for some reason (and there is always some reason) Charlotte didn't make it out of the locker room until nearly 6pm -- at least her hair looked good! We ate dinner in the garden. It was still sunny and warm. Later, Josh and I drove into town and had a nice long passegiatta. We walked down the Spanish Steps and all the way to the Pantheon before stopping for gelato. I love Rome. Even full of tourists, there are still many locals; it's a real city and has a great energy.
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