Spring Break: Day 1 - Firenze

I was pretty pleased that we only left a half an hour after my targeted departure time of 9am. It was another gorgeous day and therefore a pretty drive -- even on the Autostrada -- to Florence.

As we approached Firenze, it began to rain a bit and so it was nice to take the "scenic" route around Palazzo Pitti and the Oltrarno side before arriving at our hotel. We dropped off our luggage, but since our room was not ready yet, we set off to explore the city. But first, we were shown up to the terrace where we would be having our breakfast and where we could have a drink or coffee at the bar at any time. The view was wonderful. From one terrace, there is the Duomo -- smack dab in front of you, as is the rest of the Renaissance city of Florence. From the opposite terrace, a view stretching the length of the Arno, to the Piazza Michelangelo and the surrounding hills. We were so mesmerized, we spent some time enjoying the views before returning to the lobby.

Clowning on the magnificent Terrazzo

Our timing was fortunate as the rain subsided, and the sun actually came out just in time for our stroll. We discovered the Palazzo Davanzati, restored and available for tours. It was about to close for the day but we made a reservation to get a tour tomorrow -- it's a stone's throw from our hotel. We then went to the Piazza della Republica with is massive Post Office and City Hall Palazzo. Lucky for the kids, there was a carousel in the center of the piazza and they all took a whirl. Then, we stopped in the Chiesa Orsanmichele. While the kids enjoyed the stained glass from the inside, the real art is on the outside. The church is surrounded by niches for which statues have been specially sculpted. Just around the corner was the Piazza della Signoria. Even Avery marveled at the massive statues, including the replica of "the David." We peeked inside the courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio. By now, the natives were restless so we headed for lunch. It was tasty, but we made it a quick affair since Avery was clearly in need of a nap. The restaurant was across the street from our hotel so we had completed the loop (and seen half the city) in less than an hour. By the time we'd finished our lunch, our accomodation was ready.

Una passeggiata in P.zza della Repubblica

We are staying at the Antica Torre di via Tornabouni. It couldn't be a better location. Right on the Arno -- directly across the street from Salvatore Ferragamo on the fashionable Via Tornabuoni. We have one of the apartments (full kitchen, washing machine, etc. in case we were staying for a while) with an enormous living room and views over the Arno.

While Avery and Josh took a nap, and the girls insisted on watching TV (?), I took a book up to the terrace and enjoyed the sunshine and the views - no one else was there. I'm very happy with our choice of this place; it feels like a private Palazzo and in fact, there are only 26 rooms.

On the Arno

Once everyone was up, it was time for a passegiatta. We strolled slowly alongside the Arno and turned into Piazza della Republica. We were immediately met with throngs of people -- masses of non-Italian speakers. Suddenly we were stopped by a very well-dressed (almost too well-dressed) man who saw Olivia crying -- because we weren't stopping for gelato. We were engaged in a conversation with Filipe and his wife, Nicoletta from California. It turns out Filipe (who is a local) is Jewish and in the "schmata" business; went to Rhode Island School of Design, and travels around the Caribbean all winter long. We had to break it off, so the kids could go take another spin on the merry-go round before dinner.

Fortunately, we walked in other direction for dinner -- out of the historical center and over to the other side of the Arno -- called Oltrarno. I say fortunately because it was nice to have a little room on the streets. But on this side, Florence felt like it was dead -- as if the town has no life outside of the tourist mass.

It was a longer walk than we expected -- partially because we had the restaurant's old address; they'd moved. But eventually, we found it. It was warm and welcoming; there were communal tables. We had an absolutely terrific dinner including steak fiorentina -- the big kahuna in Tuscany. The younger kids had pasta, and Charlotte had fried coniglio -- like home-made chicken fingers, except it was rabbit. After dinner, we went to gelateria and sat outside on their covered patio. We've been lucky with weather as it's been mild.

Josh called for a taxi but none were available. So, as we are standing on street corner (in case we can flag one going by) we get to watch the Good Friday Eastern procession go by (police came to block the street). It was beautiful to see worshipers walk down the street singing and holding candles.

Alas, no taxi was to be seen so we hopped on the next bus. Aside from two other people, we had the vehicle to ourselves. The kids, especially Avery, had a ball on the bus. It took us to Piazzelle Michelangelo for the amazing night-time view of Florence with the lights, before turning back to the Ponte Vecchio. We walked across the famous bridge and turned the corner for our hotel. It had been a full and amazing day.