Capri - Day 3

We got the call from home at 2:30am. Avery was crying because his tummy hurt, and he refused to take the anti-diarrheal medicine at dinner time. Olivia was up too. Sounded like chaos.

Then again, the phone rang at 8am. Olivia was tired and didn’t want to go to school. What is up with our kids? Needless to say they both went to school. Although we did get a call from the assistant principal at around 11am saying that Avery was lying down on the mats. Jeez. When we explained that we were away she said she’d have no problem encouraging him to join in his class activities.

As for our day in Capri. We woke up earlier than planned (ie. the 8am call). Josh read while I did some yoga with the beautiful vista in the background (or foreground as the case may be). We went to breakfast which was altogether busier than yesterday. Tomorrow is the May day holiday and it seems many have taken the opportunity to create a long weekend.

We checked out of the hotel and set out on our hike. We walked along Via Tragara until it turned into Via Pizzoluongo. It was the most amazing walk. We experienced extremely varied terrain with stupendous views. I think this is the prettiest and most interesting part of the island. It’s not for the weary though, as there are many, many stairs and steep ascents and descents. But well worth it. The highlight at the peak of the hike was the belvedere of the Arco Natural. At this point, Josh had to change shirts. I told him to just keep his shirt off; but he demurred.

View of mainland (Amalfi peninsula) from Villa Jovis

After this hike, we took another path up to Villa Jovis. Villa Jovis was a Palace of the Emperor Tiberius who ruled Rome from Capri from 27AD to 37AD. Built in 24AD it was not rediscovered until the 18th century. It's located in the northeast corner of the island at its highest point, with great views over Sorrento and the Bay of Naples. 

Now it was definitely time for lunch. We chose a quiet place, half way between the Roman ruin and town, and set among lemon and orange groves, called La Savardina. This time we enjoyed the local Falanghina again with our pasta dishes. It was a well-deserved, relaxing break after our 3-hour hike (with major elevation covered). From La Savardina it was an easy walk down to Capri town. That is if you call going down easy. I hate going down.

View of Capri on road back from Villa Jovis

We stopped for a gelato at Buonecore where we encountered quite a line-up. Capri is definitely filling up for the weekend. We returned to our hotel where we put up our feet in the lounge’s terrace and enjoyed the wonderful views of the Faraglioni again before we had to depart. Josh even took a brief nap before changing clothes. We walked back to the Piazzetta – this time with our luggage. We took the funicular down to the marina, bought our ferry tickets and boarded the boat.

Once in Naples, we took in the scene which was quite lively. Before long we arrived at the train station for our ride back to Rome. It was a really easy trip. At home, Olivia and Avery were excited to see us although Avery was very tired and went immediately to bed. Shortly, Charlotte arrived from the airport -- she'd gotten a ride with a friend. We talked a bit in the garden with Charlotte and her friend about the week in Sicily. Sounds like she had a fantastic time there.

Capri - Day 2

We woke up to the sounds of birds chirping. The tranquility continued as we went down to breakfast and discovered (not surprisingly) that we were practically the only ones – one table had just left and another arrived as we were leaving. The breakfast buffet was inside the restaurant, but we chose to sit outside on the large terrace. It was very elegant, and very nice service. It's hard to leave the hotel because the setting is just so magnificent.

Gli Faraglioni from the boat

We had planned to do a hike in Anacapri this morning, but decided instead to rent a boat and circle the island. It was a beautiful, sunny day. The boat experience was really fun. We had our own little motor boat. Josh was the captain; I lounged up front. It's a great way to see the island and all of its amazing geology. We spent 2 hours on the motor boat. We rode through the arch in the Faraglioni, we explored grottoes. It was private, peaceful, relaxing, and the scenery was fantastic.

view of Anacapri from the Migliera road
(note Ischia in distance)

After returning the boat, we went back up the funicular and took the bus to Anacapri. The route took us right along the edge of a cliff -- not for the fainthearted. Once we arrived (about 10 mintues), we walked out of town for about 25 minutes before arriving at Da Gelsomino alla Migliera for lunch. It's a great spot; the food is fresh and delicious, the view is nice, and the staff/owners are friendly. They even make their own wine from the vineyard. Definitely worth the hike to get there. After some tasty antipasti, I had a swordfish and Josh had grilled calamari. Just near the restaurant is a belvedere (viewpoint) looking out over the Northwest corner of the island -- another jaw-dropping view. Instead of retracing our steps back to Anacapri, our server suggested a hike down to the faro (lighthouse) after lunch from which we could catch a bus back to Anacapri. That sounded like a great idea until we saw exactly how far DOWN it was. Not only is it a steep and long descent, but she failed to mention that the "trail" is grown over and not always obvious. Instead of turning back, we felt challenged to make it down. What was described as a pretty, half-hour hike, turned into 50 minutes of pure concentration -- although it was indeed very pretty. Once we got down to the road, we stopped at the first bus stop we found. Had we continued to the lighthouse it would've been another 15 minutes and our knees had had enough. I don't have any problem going up on a hike; but going down is just a killer.

The Hike

We waited for the bus to arrive and took it back to the town of Anacapri where we had to switch for another bus back to Capri. Both were very crowded; they really pack 'em in. But we did get to "enjoy" the harrowing ride! We were tired and glad to be back in Piazzetta Umberto. We headed back to Hotel Luna's pool. It was surprisingly crowded - especially compared to breakfast. Clearly many new arrivals for the holiday weekend. Of course, the water was ice cold. No one could swim. But there was a lot of sunning going on. We retreated to our room where Josh napped and I rested on the terrace.

We enjoyed an antipasto of prosciutto and grissini (breadsticks) on the terrace before dinner. Tonight we were going a bit out of the heart of town to Da Tonino for dinner. On our way, we stopped at Buonecore, our favorite pasticerria/gelateria to pick up desserts for later. We had a long walk to dinner at Da Tonino. It's not a very fancy place, but the food is top notch. I had cozze (mussels) and Josh had a pasta with swordfish. We also loved the local wine from Campagna called Fiano di Avellino - a delicious bianco, DOCG.

We did some more walking after dinner -- although the descents in platforms were tricky. We ate our treats along the way. It took a while for the moon to rise, so we were practically back to our hotel, but once it did it was stupendous. It cast an unbelievably beautiful reflection over the water and Faraglioni. The Faraglioni really make the view from our hotel special.

Capri

Avery had a much better night; he did get up and get into bed with us at one point, but then he slept some. At least I thought he slept because when he began to crowd me, I got up and went to sleep in Charlotte's bed. Later, Josh reported that Avery's sleep was intermittent. In any case we gave him the option of staying with Maria instead of going to school, and he chose school. Getting him to take his anti-diarrheal medicine took about an hour but finally he choked it down.

After Josh took the kids to school, we hopped in a taxi and headed for Termini. We had a 10am train to Naples. Riding the train is so comfortable and relaxing; and the scenery is beautiful. However, when we approached Naples (an hour and 10 minutes later), I was surprised to see skyscrapers! It's such a completely different-looking town than Rome.

We took a cab to the port. The traffic was so bad it seemed the 3.7km taxi ride took longer than the train ride. We boarded an 11:55am ferry and arrived in Capri by 12:45pm. It was an absolutely gorgeous, sunny and warm day.

We took the funicular up to the Piazzetta and meandered towards our hotel, making a gelato stop along the way. I was surprised by how busy it was. The entrance to our hotel was a beautiful walkway covered with a pergola of wisteria and had birds of paradise and other flowers along the path. Even more breathtaking was the view from our room. We were hanging off the cliff staring out at the Faraglioni and the sea.

We didn’t waste much time putting on our bathing suits and heading to the pool for lunch. We ate, but passed on the swimming – Josh in favor of a nap and I in favor of a walk around town. Later, we spoke to Maria when the kids arrived home from school and all was well.

In the afternoon, we walked (just next door to our hotel) to the Giardini di Augusto with it’s famous promontory and 270degree views of the coast line. Then we continued down the path to the Marina Piccola. Suddenly, as we made our way down to the water, the weather changed. A gust of wind blew in and it became overcast. As we were walking, we befriended an elderly gentleman going in the same direction. Actually, Josh commented on what good shape he was in, climbing the stairs up from the Marina. Turns out he’s 82 years old, in great shape, and was born and raised in Capri. It started raining and he suggested we take the bus back to town. He directed us on where to stand, and then disappeared into his home to find some pictures he wanted to show us of his boat. His name is Tonino and he couldn’t have been sweeter. He waited with us until we got on the bus and we waved good-bye.

When we got off the bus we were back at the top of the funicular in the Piazzetta where we’d arrived earlier this afternoon. We needed some supplies: sunblock and band-aids. Eighteen euros seems to be the “magic number” for sun cream in Capri – I checked it out at 4 different places and it was always 18euros. Afterall, we are on an island! So they've kinda got you there. As we made our way back to the Hotel Luna, we stopped for a cafe. We found a delightful pasticceria with all sorts of home-made pastries, so Josh and I shared a lemon cake with our caffé macchiato.

It was a little drizzly and a great time to take a rest at the hotel; I enjoyed the terrace and the magnificent view out over the water. By the time we ventured out for dinner, the temps were cool but it was dry. Tonight, we'd made a reservation for dinner at Capaninna -- although when we arrived it was clear no reservation was needed as we were one of only three tables being served. This restaurant is known as a place to see and be seen in the summertime -- but with very good food. Thus, we gazed at the requisite photos of the owner and staff with all the celebs. But none were to be seen tonight. Josh and I shared a great local fish called Scrofano. It was prepared in "acqua pazza," and it was delicious.

What a difference there was strolling around this evening compared to the daytime. The town had really cleared out. So many visitors are just day-trippers from Sorrento or Positano, or off one of the enormous cruise ships. The tranquility in the evening was very nice. To top it off, we had a full moon and the views of the coastline and the water were incredible.

Avery's ill

I can hardly remember sleeping last night. First, Charlotte's cell phone called inadvertently at 11:30pm (there was a lot of noise and laughing going on in the background). Then, Avery walked in at midnight with a tummy ache and big fever. And, that was pretty much the end of any sleeping. Josh got up and went upstairs to Charlotte's bed, and Avery (tried to) slept with me. He was whining so much that Josh woke up and came down at around 5am; that's when I left and went up to Charlotte's bed while he took a turn with Avery. Olivia woke up at 6:30 saying that Avery woke her up; and the next thing I knew, Avery came in to the girls' room and it was 9am! I came downstairs and Josh and Olivia had already left for school. I was in a daze after the night of musical beds.

Needless to say, Avery stayed home today. He had a fever and diarrhea -- it was so bad he couldn't make it to the bathroom. I had a couple of beauty appointments scheduled, so we stayed home in shifts. Josh stayed with Avery while I had my nails done; I stayed with Avery while he went on a bike ride. Avery was really listless all day until this evening. Josh picked up some diarrhea medicine at the pharmacy this afternoon and that seemed to help. Of course, the timing is sad since Josh and I have been planning to leave for Capri tomorrow for a couple of days. If Avery is not well-enough to go to school, we'll have to adjust our departure.

I picked Olivia up from school and we walked home. Along the way we stopped for a cafe (for me) and a biscotti (for her). While we were sitting at the banquette, a group of teenagers came in and sat next to us. I wasn't paying much attention, but Olivia overheard them and then told me (in secret) that they'd said "cazzo," and then she told me what it meant. Unfortunately, cursing in Italian is part of the linguistic lesson that sticks with kids.

Morris came over tonight to make some dinner which was really helpful since Avery wanted me to sit with him all evening. Poor little guy. I just hope he can sleep through the night tonight (so we can too:)) and that he'll feel better in the morning.

Sicily week for Charlotte

Charlotte left for Sicily this morning. We sent her off to the airport with a couple of friends. One of the girls’ mom offered to drive them. My ankle was feeling much better but I opted to join Josh on a bike ride through town rather than spend time at the gym working out. Cycling is pretty easy on the ankle; plus it was a beautiful day to spend outdoors.

Josh had an errand to run first, so we met afterwards at Piazza Sant Ignazio, in front of the church. Josh had yet to see the beautifully frescoed ceiling by Andrea Pozzo – and I was happy to see it again. Afterwards we rode over to the early renaissance Basilca Sant Agostino to see the painting of Madonna di Loreto by Caravaggio on display there. It’s a great painting but my favorites are still the pair in Santa Maria del Popolo; and Josh loves the Calling of St. Matthew painting of Caravaggio's in San Luigi dei Francesi. Everyone has their favorite church in Rome.

Then we rode over to Teatro della Pace to Lo Zozzone. This is a wonderful, casual place where all types of sandwiches are made on fresh pizza bianca. After lunch, Josh went to visit a gallery owner and I headed home. It was really a fabulous day for cycling around town.

This afternoon, I attended a meeting for Olivia’s class regarding the class trip to Abruzzo next week. Many of the Italian parents were concerned about safety following the death of two children while on a school trip last week.

Avery stayed after school for calcio, so I had only Olivia for the car ride home – that felt strangely calm. I made fish for dinner tonight; some Rombo for the kids before Olivia had to leave for swimming, and a Branzino for the adults (who had more time to disassemble the whole fish) later. It was still so lovely outside that Josh and I dined al fresco. When I collected Olivia from swim practice, I was handed a slip of paper to sign her up for swim meet on May 8th; one event per child.

Charlotte called to check in with us and to tell us she was having a fun time. They toured the town of Catania today which included climbing on the rocks at the beach, visiting a church with a sun dial, and going to the Sicilian puppet museum (how sweet!). Then the class went for gelato before returning to the hotel for dinner. Charlotte is rooming with Benedetta, Marinella and Ludovica. I can’t imagine she will get much sleep this week. I’m think I'll stay out of her way for a couple of days when she gets back to Rome.

Trevignano

I landed at Fiumicino this morning at 7am. I remember trying to eat some dinner before falling asleep, but because I'd already taken an ambien, I ended up throwing up in the bathroom instead. The whole episode is kind of a blur, though.

Avery came along with Josh to pick me up. It was great to see them both. Shortly after we got home, the girls came downstairs. We spent a while going through all the new clothes, shoes, and gifts that I'd brought over from the other side of the pond. Josh went out on a ride and by the time he returned, we were all (very) ready to get out and enjoy the gorgeous day.

We took a 45 minute drive to Trevignano which is a cute town on Lago Bracciano -- just across the lake from the town of Bracciano. We pulled in at lunch time, and on such a beautiful day, most all the tables at restaurants lining the lake were full. We found one spot that was very picturesque but probably not the best food in town. Even so, it wasn't bad. There was a nice lawn with trees and benches where the kids could play between courses.

The interesting thing is that we had a hard time finding anyone else wearing shorts. It reminded me of Cairo -- except we are not in a Muslim country; this is Italy. Yet in April, even when it's 75 degrees (and 85 in the sun!), the ladies were in jeans and leather boots, or black hose with skirts, and some even wore jackets! No self-respecting Italian ever dresses for the weather.

It was such a nice treat to return to Italy and spend a day like this in the country. The vegetation is so green and even the drive was really lovely.

I was pretty tired by the time we got home. And, since I'd been walking, my ankle was pretty swollen again. I tried to take a rest but Avery prevented me from doing so. Three times, just as I was dozing off, he woke me up. Avery really couldn't hold it together for the car ride home from Trevignano. Once at home, he was punished by having to spend the rest of the day in his room. As a result, he decided if he was going to have to stay in his room, he would torture the rest of us by making as much noise as possible! I can't believe he didn't tire himself out. But alas, he made it to dinner and passed out immediately afterwards. Just as I am about to do.

Toronto - Day 3

7 am seems to be the magic wake-up time for me – alarm or no alarm. This morning, Kathy put out a quite a spread for breakfast, and my parents and I noshed and hung out in the kitchen. Shortly, Anita and Peter came over too, and then we all made our way to Tommy’s house for brunch; another stop on our three day food odyssey!

Tommy and his family moved back to Toronto from Bratislava a year ago and this was the first time I was visiting their new home. It was another nice sunny day in Toronto and while the adults ate some more, the boys all played nicely together in the yard (Kathy has two; Jack is 6, and Ben is 4; and Tommy has two; Max is 6 and Sam is 4). They have very symmetrical families.

After brunch, Tommy’s wife, Katka, helped me in my continued quest for my Slovak/EU Passport by translating a CV for my application for citizenship (just a small step I skipped in my original attempt at obtaining the passport; it helps to be a citizen of the country first). Yesterday, Peter helped me translate the actual application form. This process is really becoming a full-on family effort.

It was another nice afternoon of hanging out and catching up. Thankfully, while my ankle was still swollen, I was able to walk on it more easily. Kathy drove me to the airport in the afternoon, and my parents accompanied me. It had been a brief visit, but extremely worthwhile and I was happy to have seen my parents as well as the rest of the family.

I planned to sleep on the flight home and so I took an ambien as an aid. Apparently, I should’ve finished eating first, since I had to get up and hurl the entire contents of my Alitalia meal before settling in for the (brief) night.

Toronto - Day 2

I woke up at 5am but kind of dozed on and off until 7am when, having fallen back asleep, the alarm went off in Cooper’s room, where I was sleeping. The house was quiet, except for Jack, peacefully watching TV when I went downstairs. I made some coffee and called Josh. The kids were at school; it was raining in Rome. As a follow-up to Wednesday’s blog, Josh reported that a new email from the head of the middle school was sent out to Grade 8 parents, apologizing for the incorrect information contained in yesterday’s email. The class trip to Sicily will in fact be for 5 days as originally described – and the itinerary (STILL) would be forthcoming.

Staying at Kathy’s place, I was able to get in a workout in her basement. Everyone gathered at her place by 11am for brunch. (Tommy was at work, but Stefan was dropped off so he was there too.) In the afternoon, I went with my parents and Anita and Peter to visit the cemetery where my grandparents and great-grandmother is buried. It was another beautiful, sunny day. On the way back, we stopped at “the mall” to buy some English-language books.

My aunt and uncle invited everyone to their apartment for dinner – no kids. Still there were 12 of us. We had a champagne toast for my dad, along with a huge amount of appetizers. Then we were seated for an unbelievably elegant and delicious meal. It was a fantastic dinner party and it was wonderful to have everyone seated around the table together. Of course, my sister was missing due to the fact that her husband and son were just getting home from their European escapade with the volcanic ash.

Unfortunately, earlier in the day, as I was leaving for the cemetery, I stumbled and turned my ankle. By the end of the evening, my entire foot was throbbing and I couldn’t put any weight on it. I iced it at Anita and Peter’s house, and took some ibuprofen. What a bummer.

I couldn’t believe it was almost midnight again by the time we drove back to Kathy’s house. My parents decided to stay with her also so we could “hang out” in the morning. I went to bed with a wrap on my foot.

Toronto - Day 1

And a long day it will be... I checked the Alitalia website when I woke up and noted, as expected, that my flight was an hour and fifteen minutes delayed. The flight had a significant delay last Monday, and as such, had yet to “catch up” these past few days to the normally scheduled time. (The plane just flies back and forth to Toronto once each day).

In any case, it put a more relaxed feel to the morning of my departure. I was able to enjoy breakfast with the kids, and we were even able to drop them off at school before heading to the airport. Josh packed two large duffel bags full of ski clothing and equipment, so that I could transport these back to North America. My parents will bring the luggage back to Detroit with them.

Josh drove me to the airport and even escorted me inside with the bags – I felt like a VIP! The flight went smoothly – I watched the Dilinger movie Public Enemies. Upon landing in Toronto, my cousin Kathy picked me up, and we drove to her place so I could shower and change. Then, due to a protest downtown which closed several streets, we took the subway to the Royal York Hotel. There, we met my mom, aunt and uncle, and my cousin Tom. We walked over to the convention center together where we met several other relatives and friends. Steve, my mom’s cousin who lives in Prague, had also flown over for the event. He was staying with his cousins on the other side of his family, Milan and Linda, who also attended. So there we were, in force, the family of Jan Rival, to see him honored by the American College of Physicians with a Mastership designation.

It was a convocation -- much like a college graduation ceremony – very formal with everyone dressed in cap and gown. Physicians from all over the world were present. There were honorees from Latin American, Europe, Asia, and of course, Canada. After those individuals receiving a Mastership Award were each recognized, The President of the ACP gave a speech about the issues facing health care providers in today’s age. It was quite interesting. Following the recessional, we met my dad. Many people came up to congratulate my father for his achievement and I was so very proud of him.

After the ceremony, we all walked back to the hotel for the reception. Coincidentally, my brother-in-law and nephew who were stranded in Prague since Monday, were booked on a flight home through Toronto today. They landed during the convocation ceremony and were able to join us at the reception. Poor Jake -- he had slits for eyes he was so tired. They had left their hotel at 5am this morning (Prague time). I thought he would tip over at any minute. It was so great to see them and everyone. In fact, there were so many of us (family) who hadn’t seen each other in so long -- it was like our own private party within a party. By 10:30pm, I was still standing – but barely. Tom drove us home so we wouldn’t’ have to take the subway. I got to bed just before midnight!

Palazzo Barberini

After working out this morning, I met a friend at AquAniene for a spremute (fresh squeezed orange juice -- blood orange in this case) and a panino. We had a great chat; her daughter is one of Avery's friends at school. Afterwards, I dropped the car off at home, and rode my bike into centro. It was another glorious day in Rome with temps in the 70's.

I stopped by the AWAR office at the Hotel Savoy to pick up invitations to the Gala party which will be held at the U.S. Ambassador's residence -- conveniently located just around the corner from our villa. Coincidentally, the young girl working at the office today is a student at Loyola and is from Skokie! She expressed sadness that her junior year in Rome was coming to an end.

Then I rode over to the Palazzo Barberini, a beautifully restored Palazzo from the 17th century. The site had originally been owned by the Sforza family -- they had a villa with family apartments built in 1549. It was purchased in 1625 by Maffeo Barberini who had just become Pope Urban VIII. The construction of the Palazzo is an interesting story. The original architect was Carlo Maderno. He was assisted by his nephew, Francesco Borromini. When the Pope died, Borromini was passed over in favor of Bernini, then only known as a sculptor, beginning what would become a bitter rivalry between the two genius artists.

The Palazzo now houses the Galleria Nazionale d'Art Antica, an important collection of paintings primarily from the 13th to the 17th century including works by Rafael, Caravaggio, El Greco, Tintoretto and Hans Holbein. Unfortunately, the Salon with the beautifully frescoed ceiling by Pietro da Cortona, the Allegory of Divine Providence and Barberini Power, was closed for restorations. The museum is the perfect size; 10 rooms of paintings in a beautiful setting easy to see in a little over an hour.

When I collected the kids from school, I was surprised that Charlotte (still) didn't have any information regarding her trip to Sicily next week. Yesterday, at pick up, I'd heard from some other parents that the flight on Monday had been pushed back to the afternoon and that the parents were responsible for getting kids to the airport. These parents also expected that some information, including a final schedule, would be disseminated today. When I got home, I decided to give the school a call. The assistant principal was away from her desk, but the head of the middle school was not. I really gave him an earful.

Since the original email went out on March 15th-- a letter from the head of the middle and high school -- we've received no further details of any kind or any communication whatsoever regarding this class trip, other than a phone call reminding us to pay for it. You might recall, that the email letter dated March 15th, stated that the itinerary and details of the trip would follow. Well, there are only two school days left before departure, and we are still waiting for those details. I told the head of the school that the lack of communication is appalling. He was apologetic and contrite. He indicated that they were having some trouble with the travel agent in Sicily that is putting the trip together. But he did add that the kids were now going to Siracusa since "I had requested it." CAN YOU BELIEVE IT? I told him that the fact that they were originally planning to take students to Taormina, and not Siracusa, on a class trip to Sicily requires a whole other conversation because that would've been completely ridiculous. Are they going on vacation? Or, are they suppossed to learn something? You can't learn about Sicily without going to Siracusa. Finally, I asked about the transportation to and from the airport. When he confirmed that each family was responsible for getting the kids to/from the airport, I asked why on earth the school did not organize a bus as part of the trip? "Additional cost." How much more could it possibly cost per child? Not to mention the ecological issue of sending 20 cars to the airport when it could have just been one bus. Anyway, my blood was boiling and he promised to email me something. When I read the attachments to his email, I discovered that they shortened the trip by one day and the kids were now coming home on Thursday instead of Friday. And, apparently no one else knows about this but me!?! Of course, we already planned our week around Charlotte being away, and thus we won't even be in Rome next Thursday to pick her up. But that's not the real problem. It is extremely disappointing that the school is so disorganized. Perhaps I should have volunteered -- I could have easily planned a better trip to Sicily for 20 kids myself!

Art tour by bike

Another gorgeous day in Rome. I planned a "giro" for Josh and I to explore some of Rome's lesser-known (or underappreciated) museums; and to take advantage of the free admissions afforded by the "culture week" event. Our first stop was to be Galleria Spada in the Piazza of the same name. But, since we were riding right by Palazzo Altemps, I suggested we make a quick visit to this stunning palazzo filled with marble antiquities. I had visited this palazzo once before (see Feb, 25th blog) and gave Josh a quick tour of what I thought were the highlights. He was so impressed, he returned later in the day to have more time with the sculptures and take the audio tour.

Palazzo Altemps - courtyard

Then we peddled on to Galleria Spada. This palazzo was purchased by Cardinal Spada in 1632, and he commissioned Francesco Borromini to modify it for him. Today, the palazzo houses a museum which is most well-known, not for the art on the inside, but for the architectural work by Borromini in the courtyard. In an effort to render a small place much larger and more dramatic. Borromini created a masterpiece of trompe-l'oeil by designing diminishing rows of columns and a rising floor to create the optical illusion of a gallery that is 37 meters long -- but it is really only 8. At the end of the gallery sits what looks like a lifesize sculpture, but it is only really 60 cm tall. It's referred to as Borromini's perspective.

We then crossed the Tiber to Trastevere and visited the Villa Farnesina (see Feb 22nd blog for details). Josh was most impressed with the Raphael fresco in the Galatea room, although he also noted the disconnected nature of the room's decoration.

We crossed the street and entered the impressive Palazzo Corsini. I had visited the library here -- home of the Accademia dei Lincei, but today we were going to see the art collection in the Galleria Corsini. By the time we finished at Palazzo Corsini, we were ready for lunch. I was so looking forward to eating those delicious looking mussels at La Tani de Noantri, and was disappointed to find the restaurant is closed on Tuesdays. We settled, instead, for Taverna La Scala which was also pretty good.

After getting a coffee at the local bar, we rode back across the river to Piazza Farnese. There was definitely something going on. All kinds of people -- men of the cloth, nuns, and Swiss guards -- were milling about. Later we found out, everyone was in costume as they were filming a movie. We rode back through Piazza Navona to the Palazzo Altemps where I left Josh to browse some more. I continued the ride home. On the way, I bumped into the Basilica di San Lorenzo in Lucina under which the Ara Pacis was discovered. I popped in to have a look. Archaological tours are given the first saturday of the month at 5pm. I'll add that to my list. Meanwhile I took a look around at the various chapels -- some busts by Bernini, it's becoming commonplace to see his work all over Rome. In fact, entering almost any church in Rome virtually guarantees that you'll see some marvelous art.

Galleria Borghese and Cafe AquAniene

It was sunny and bright this morning. It appears the pattern is for cool mornings and warm afternoons. I got my workout in at Aniene, before coming home to make a nice tortelloni porcini which Josh and I ate outdoors. Then we rode over to the Galleria Borghese for our 1pm reservation. So glad to be seeing this place again. Last time, due to an exhibition, we did not see the rooms in the correct order. Today, we were able to enter up the main staircase and into the stunning entrance gallery filled with ancient roman statues and mosaics, along with beautifully frescoed walls and ceiling. As we toured the rooms, we took extra time in the galleries where Bernini's sculptures are found. I think you could stare at the Bernini sculptures of Apollo and Daphne, and Pluto and Prosperina for hours they are so intricate and mesmerizing. We were also able to appreciate the room of Caravaggio's paintings this time. Last time we were here, some were in the process of being organized for a Caravaggio/Bacon show. Even today, the boy with the fruit was missing as it's in the Exhibit of Carravaggio at the Scuderie. Still, there were four others by Carravaggio that were stunning. Aside from all the magnificent collection of art, it's the palazzo itself that is so richly decorated putting you into another era completely.

It was certainly an enjoyable way to spend an afternoon.

Afterwards I rode home. I noticed the weather was changing. Sure enough by the time I left to pick up the kids from school it had begun to rain. But not normal rain. Huge, enormous drops of rain, like someone was dumping a bucket of water from the sky. Once at home, I had yet to go grocery shopping, which I did.

Later, I picked Olivia up from her swim lesson and we enjoyed a treat upstairs at the Cafe' -- she had a gelato, and I had a spritz. Who knew they made such good cocktails at the gym. And, who knew they made cocktails at all. But not only was the drink tasty, it was accompanied by mini-panini, chips and (haven't seen this yet in Italy) corn nuts! Olivia and I had a nice time talking and munching.

Villa Doria Pamphilij aka Casino del Bel Respiro ... but can you get in?

I had it all arranged. Rita came over to babysit for Avery at 11am, so that the four of us could enjoy a remarkable tour of the Villa Doria Pamphilij in the Park of the same name. The Villa is private and only open to the public this one day a year during the settimana di bene cultura -- or at least, so I was told. We arrived at the park, and located the villa, but not the tour. I called 06 06 08. I was told the guide would meet us at the entrance to the park. I walked back to the entrance, and found the guide, who told me that the tour was not of the Villa but of the park itself. I called 06 06 08 again. They told me it was up to the guide. Altogether there seemed to be much confusion.

We were all disappointed not to be going inside to see this spectacular residence.

The gardens alone were a sight to behold. Designed by the sculptor Alessandro Algari of Bologna, the architecture appears unique for a Roman Palazzo -- it looks more like a French Chateau. The only other structure that gives a similar impression is Gallerie Borghese. The Villa, known as the Casino del Bel Respiro, was constructed from 1645 to 1647 after Cardinal Giambattista Pamphilij became Pope Innocent X.

So, instead of seeing the inside of the villa, we had a nice walk around the park, watched some of a soccer game going on, and got back in the car. We drove up the Gianicolo to have a look at the Fontana Acqua Paolo, and then onwards to Trastevere for lunch. Sunday in Trastevere is such a lovely time to sit outdoors and enjoy a languorous meal. The area is full of families and children. We had a great meal with the girls at the Ristorante La Tana de Noantri. Then we checked out the goings in the Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere before going inside the church. I've really come to enjoy popping into churches all over Rome.

Afterwards, we drove over to Prati to visit our new favorite gelateraia - Gelateria del Gracchi. Clearly, it's popular -- it's the first gelateria I've seen with a "take a number" system, just like at the deli counter!

At home, Avery was watching a show. The kids played for a while and then Josh took them out for a bike ride. Olivia's first ride on her new (used) bike. She really loves it. I spent time talking to my sister about how to get her husband and son home from Prague. Tod and Jake had been in Munich and Prague for a hockey tournament (and sightseeing) this past week, and were now one of the 7 million stranded passengers as most European airports were still closed as a result of the volcanic ash. There are no easy answers, as the path of the ash, and further disruptions are unknown. I wish they'd come to Rome so we could see them; Rome has one of the few open airports. But of course, all the transatlantic flights appear to be booked until late in the week.

We brought pizza in for dinner tonight.

Palatino and Colosseum

With all the archaeogical monuments and museums in Rome free this week, we dropped by the Palatine Hill this morning for a brief stroll. We all slept late and by the time we had breakfast and left the villa, we only had two hours before we needed to be back home (so Charlotte could make her swim practice).

We parked just next to the Parco di Traiano, once site of Nero's massive palace. We'd never been in this park and it afforded a really nice view down the hill of the Colosseum. We walked through the park and around the Colosseum, past the Arch of Constantine, and up to the top of the Palatine Hill. There is good reason that the Emperors chose this beautiful location for their residences. There are views of the city, including the Roman Forum, from all sides. Of course for Avery, he was always able to keep the dome of St. Peter's in view. In addition to the house of Augustus and the house of Livia, the hill is also home to lovely gardens. We had the usual squeeking from the kids; Olivia and Avery mainly. The weather was overcast and at one point it sprinkled a bit.

Coming down from Palatino, at Avery's insistance, we decided we had a bit of time to drop in to the Colosseum. Last time we were here, Avery got lost, so he sort of missed it. He was glad to have another chance to go back.

Afterwards, we drove home for lunch. Charlotte was whisked off to swimming; Avery took a much needed nap; Josh went shopping for a used bike for Olivia; and Olivia and I hung out. The weather improved this afternoon so I was able to practice a bit of yoga in the sunshine on the terrace.

Before dusk, Josh and I went to Piazza del Popolo to meet Roxanne and Rocco for an apertivo. We walked along the Pincio to an outdoor terrace so we could enjoy the sunset. Much to our dismay, they were closing (at 7pm). Such a shame. We walked across the way to the Hassler and had our cocktails there. However, their giardino wasn't open yet since it's still "too cold?" so we sat in the lounge. What's up with the Romans? - no matter how beautiful the weather, it's only April, and therefore not summer yet. Still, the drinks were very good, and so were the accompanying snacks!

Afterwards, we said our good-byes and put our friends in a cab to go to their dinner. Josh and I strolled down the Spanish Steps and turned onto Via Frattina - alas Palatium had a nice table near the bar that was calling our name. We enjoyed a fantastic meal and great, inexpensive wine from Lazio.

When we returned to the car, we were tempted to check out the concert in Piazza del Popolo. We drove into the Villa Borghese and hung out at the overlook above the Piazza. It was mobbed. While the music might have been alluring, we caught the show during a period of announcements. However, the setting was magnificent. Overlooking the fountains, statues and obelisk in the Piazza, it's a very romantic spot in the evening (crowded during the day). We drove down into the square, as the young crowd rocked to another artist, we made our way home.

The Ara Pacis and Volcanic Ash

I woke up with pink eye (?), but still went for a quick workout at the gym this morning. Then I turned it around and rode my bike into town for a visit to the Ara Pacis. As I rode through the Piazza del Popolo, I could see (and hear) that it was set up for a big concert. It turns out Rome is launching its bid for the 2020 Olympics (ROMA 2020) and the Piazza will be home to all sorts of events all weekend long, including a concert tomorrow night.

When I arrived at the Ara Pacis, I picnicked out front by the fountain with my home-made panino, before going inside. Then, I went in to see the monument. The Ara Pacis Augastae is an altar to peace which was commissioned by the Roman Senate in 13 BC to honor the Emperor Augustus's return from victory against Gaul and Spain. The altar celebrated the Peace brought about by Augustus -- in fact his rule initiated the Pax Augusta or Pax Romana which lasted over 200 years. The altar is recognized as a masterpiece. It is comprised of elaborate reliefs some of which depict a procession where Augustus himself is recognizable as are many of his contemporaries. It's a truly beautiful monument. Interestingly, due to its original location on the flood plain of Campo Marzio, it did not survive; it was buried under four meters of silt over the centuries. The first fragments were discovered in 1568 beneath the Basilica San Lorenzo. While these fragmentary sculptures were placed in museums, additional fragments were discovered in 1859. By 1903, a concerted effort was begun to recover the rest of the monuments' strewn reliefs, but the reconstruction was not completed until 1938. In 2006, the Richard Meier structure was built around the altar in order to protect it from its position alongside the Tiber. The contemporary Meier architecture surrounding this ancient monument was very controversial, but I personally love it. It's a magical juxtaposition of old and new. Plus the fact that much of the building is glass allows all passerby to appreciate the altar.

There are some interesting exhibits around the altar inside, but for the most part it can be seen from the outside. Currently, there is an unrelated exhibition of the deceased Italian singer Fabrizio de Andre' in the space on the lower floor.

Josh met me near the Ara Pacis, and we rode over to Piazza Nicosia so he could grab a nice pizza for lunch. Afterwards, we rode around around town and back home. It was a gorgeous day with temps hitting 80 degrees.

Charlotte went home with Valentina after school. I took Avery to the market. He loves to go shopping for groceries. Later, Morris was coming over to babysit since we were going out to meet some friends from Chicago. But, when I checked my email, I realized that the volcanic ash from the eruption in Iceland was still wreaking havoc with air travel. My former partner Roxanne, had been in Paris on business, but with the airport still closed, she couldn't get her flight to Rome. Her husband, Rocco, had already arrived here, having come in from Chicago.

So, Josh and I went to meet Rocco at his hotel and the three of us had an apertivo. Roxanne, was taking a car down to Lyon, France to fly out of that airport. We headed to dinner at Sora Lella on Isola Tiberina. Roxanne made it in before we got to the dessert. It had been a long day for both of them; but it was nice to catch up with old friends.

Avery at RIS

After this morning's Italian class with Charlotte and Miss Ivana, I decided it would be my last. Charlotte is so far ahead of me now (with her young brain, immersion at school and swimming and 6 hours of lessons a week), and I don't want to hold her back. It's a great opportunity for Charlotte to get Ivana, alone, one-on-one once a week. She can really take her Italian to the next level. Sadly, for me, I cannot. I think private lessons would be the way to go ... the question is, do I want to make the time now? Because, I'm running out of time... so many things I still want to see and do before we leave Rome for summer vacation.

I had time for a cappuccino break in Piazza Ungheria, before returning to RIS to meet Josh. We were going to Avery's class today, to make-up for the time we missed his student-led, parent/ teacher conference. Avery was sitting and waiting for us with his portfolio on the table, a smile on his face. He went showed us some examples of his work from each unit of inquiry. It was so cute. He was so proud. Then we went to the computer lab so he could show us which programs he uses -- the same ones he uses at home. Finally, we visited the library and read a couple of books together. It was a very sweet time to spend with him; and he was so happy to parade us around his school.

Once we left RIS, I made the rounds at the grocery store, and then relaxed at home after lunch. I had a nail appointment, so Josh picked the kids up and then we all met at Il Cigno. Unfortunately, Avery was having a melt-down. Too tired. Josh chose a bad day to walk the kids home. But, maybe not. Maybe they should get used to walking from now on.

Once at home, Avery went immediately for a nap. The girls had swimming; I took a sauna.

After dinner, we watched some Letterman.

06 06 08

Today I discovered 06 06 08. I'd heard about 06 06 08, but I'd never tried 06 06 08, until today. It's fantastic. Anything you want to know about anything in Rome, and they have the answer. Museum hours, Special Events, even info on lodging and transportation. You name it. You can choose to speak to an operator in Italian or in English and there was virtually no waiting time.

I was calling to inquire about the possibility of visiting the Casino Ludovisi-Boncampagni where there is a ceiling painted by Caravaggio. The gentleman at 06 06 08 told me it can be visited by appointment on Tuesdays and Fridays, and he gave me the number to call for the reservation. I also inquired about the Casino del Aurora - since I wanted to take Josh there. This launched us into a whole new discussion. Did I know it was Settimana di Bene Cultura from April 16th to the 25th? No. I did not. Well during this 10-day period most all of the museums in Rome are free AND many private palazzos and other sites not normally open to the public will be open for private tours which can be reserved through... you guessed it, none other than, 06 06 08. Wow. I was ready to do cartwheels.

Since I had my gentleman friend on the phone, I took the opportunity to book the entire family into one of these private tours of the Villa Pamphilij which is in the park of the same name and not generally open to the public. Cool! I hope the kids think so. After hanging up the phone, I made of list of places and museums I had yet to see in Rome. Let's see, should I go to the Ara Pacis or the Palazzo Barberini for free next week? Or, the Art Gallery in the Palazzo Corsini? I've wanted to return to the Gallerie Borghese ... so I started with that since a reservation is required. I'm going to get myself all "cultured-out" next week. How fun!

When I was finished making plans for next week, I picked the kids up from school. The girls had a piano lesson, and Josh took Avery out for a little calcio while I made dinner. That's it. It was a day of dicovery -- 06 06 08.

Self-guided tour; wine appreciation

Since Nancy is on vacation, this morning I had a self-guided tour in centro. I rode my bike through the park and over to the remains of the Temple of Hadrian. Eleven 15 meter high corinthian columns still remain standing on a base of volcanic rock (called peperino). The structure now behind the columns was built in the 17th century as a a papal customs house, and today houses the Roman stock exchange. Just around the corner is Piazza Sant'Ignazio in which I found the Jesuit Chiesa Sant' Ignazio di Loyola. The Church, built by Pope Gregory XV in 1626, has the most remarkable, three-dimensional, trompe'l'oeil ceiling fresco by Andrea Pozzo. As I told Josh, I think it's better than the Sistine Chapel. But then again it was also painted more than 170 years later. The Order ran out of funding before the church's dome could be built. Pozzo painted a canvas which is streched across the area where the dome would have been, creating a "synthetic" dome, again using trompe l'oeil. The architectural affects of Pozzo's work are really quite remarkable.

Upon leaving Sant Ignazio, and going around to the back of the church, I found myself on Via Pie di Marmo where I ran in to the Pie di Marmo -- a giant marble foot left over from some massive ancient Roman statue. Onward towards the Pantheon, I stopped at Piazza della Minerva (where you find the Bernini designed obelisk placed on top of the baby elephant) and went inside Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. Off all the churches I've visited. This one was the best organized. There was a floor plan just inside with not only the location and description of the art in the church, but with photographs and arrows so you knew exactly what to look for. For instance, the Carafa family chapel frescoed by Filippino Lippi, the Michelangelo sculpture of Christ Bearing the Cross, the Bernini funerary monument for Sister Maria Raggi, the Aldobrandi chapel, etc. A vast amount of art from every period is on display, for free, in Rome's churches. You can pop in and visit again and again. It's fantastic.

Then I rode over to the Cloister of Bramante. The cloister is next to the small church of Santa Maria della Pace which I visited a couple of weeks ago with Nancy's group. But that day, the cloister was closed. The cloister of Bramante is now also a stage for frequent art exhibitions. It's a charming and intimate cloister of perfect proportions.

Josh rode in to town and met me in Piazza Venezia. We were going to visit the Palazzo Venezia but once there realized it was a Museum. We weren't in the mood for paintings, so we went around to the other side to see the Basilica San Marco. Alas, time was up, it was after the noon hour, and the churches were now all closed ... until 4pm. So what did we do instead? First we crossed the street and entered the spectacular courtyard of the Palazzo Doria Pamphilij. I watched the bikes while Josh looked for a book in the bookstore. Then, we went to lunch.

We chose Enoteca Corsi, located on a small cobble-stoned street behind the Pamphilij, known as a place for locals. I must report, I didn't get it. It was one of the least interesting meals we've had in Italy ... but the place was packed. Being an enoteca, one would assume all types of wines would be served by the glass. But, that was not the case either. We had a carafe of house white, which was fine, but what is so "enoteca" about that? Bottles upon bottles of wine, for sale, lined the floor to ceiling shelves all around the dining room, but apparently none are offered by the glass. Anyways, it was an authentic experience. We rode back home to the Parioli after lunch.

I picked the kids up from school. Olivia had a field trip today to Ostia Antica. She said she had remembered a lot from what we'd seen when we all went together last fall. While Olivia was busy chatting about her day, Charlotte didn't say anything. It's becoming increasingly difficult to have a relationship with her.

I organized the dinner for Josh and the kids tonight. I was going to my first Wine Apprecition meeting hosted by two women from AWAR. My friend, Nicole picked me up and we drove together Bibenda Wine Concept in Aventino where the tasting was being held. We were about a dozen women, and we tasted three red wines, and munched on some antipasti. Our co-hosts from AWAR are actually sommeliers. There was a presentation about winemaking and the various regions in Italy and France and what types of grapes are grown in which region. It was not what I expected; it was a very educational and professionally run affair. I just thought we were going to drink and gossip.

First we tasted a Gattinara which is made from the Nebbiolo grape of Piemonte. This is a DOCG wine; only 50 wines in Italy have this denomination. More prevalent is the DOC denomination which is held by about 500 wines. Piemonte's nebbiolo grape is most notably associated with Barolo and Barbaresco wines. The Gattinara was a 2004 and it was good, although rich in tanins which is not my preferred palate.

Next we tried a wine from Lazio (not a region known so much for red wines). I can't even remember the name of the wine we drank because I didn't really like it, but it was made from a Cesanese grape -- a varietal I'd never heard of (apparently for good reason). It's interesting that both of these first two wines had a 13.5% alcohol content. While you couldn't feel it so much with the Gattinara, it hit you like a ton of bricks with the Lazio wine.

Finally, we sampled a French wine (Christine, one of the organizers of this wine appreciation group is French). It was a Pinot Noir from the Borgogne region. Really smooth and soft, it was by far my favorite. I had two glasses. It was fun evening and informative too.

Back to my Roman routine

Italy (and Rome) are all about personal connections. And I don't mean the kind of connections that land you a good job (although those are mandatory here); I mean developing a rapport with those individuals you deal with on a daily basis. People here have a routine. They go to the same bar for their morning coffee each day; and get to know their barrista (largely due to the custom of standing up at the bar while you drink your coffee). People have a relationship with their own butcher and their own fruit vendors, etc. Italians like to develop these relationships with their local purveyors because it creates accountability. Many have advised me: if you buy your meat from the same butcher every week, he can't sell you a bad cut otherwise you will be back to tell him it wasn't any good. For all that Italy lacks by way of "customer service" it's this personal way of "doing business" that makes up for it. It feels comfortable and builds a sense of community.

As such, if I think about it, I am now part of that community. When I go to the gym, I see the same folks each morning. I've developed a rapport with the staff/trainers .. as it's always the same two or three on duty. I've also made friends with one particular woman who works out at the gym frequently. She's from Sweden, speaks perfect English, has two teenage boys and has been living in Rome for a dozen or more years. She really works out hard, and does some very innovative and difficult exercises which she's helped me try. In any case, its nice to have a conversation at the gym from time to time.

I stopped at the grocery store on my way home to meet Josh for lunch. Again, it's part of my routine, and I know the "parcheggio guy" - it's the same guy each day that I give my car key to, so that he can play a real live version of "Rush Hour" with the 15 cars trying to park in the 6 spaces. I know the "deli" girl that slices the meats I buy. I know the cashiers at the store - and they know me. Ten years in Chicago and I can't say I knew anyone at the stores -- although it's also true that I didn't go 4 or 5 times a week! Living in Italy, even a big international city like Rome, feels more like living in a small town because of the formation of these communities. Plus there is the fact that no one ever leaves or changes jobs, and no one gets fired. So the cashier that's taking my payment today, will still be there in 5, 10 and probably 20 years. I will miss the parcheggio guy with his Romano accent -- he's the best.

Anyway, I digress. It's a Monday, the kids are back in school, and so we are all back to our routines. After going to the gym and the grocery store, I met Josh at home for lunch. Later, an appointment took me to centro. Josh dropped me off and I walked home through the Piazza del Popolo, making a quick stop in Santa Maria del Popolo to see two of my favorite Carravagio paintings: The Cruxifiction of St. Peter and The Conversion of St. Paul. Then I walked home through the Villa Borghese. It had started to sprinkle just as I reached the gate at Michele Mercati.

The girls went to swim practice tonight; I worked on organizing tax information for our accountant; and Avery who had just come home from after-school soccer was watching TV.

While Josh was at Aniene with the girls, he took the time to settle our bills. Actually, in keeping with Aniene's lack of putting any printed information in the hands of the members and athletes (ie. no meet schedule, no results posted, etc. ) we're just expected to check with the desk occasionally to see what we owe. Technically, all the swimmers are on a payment plan where the annual fee is pro-rated and paid every two months. But sometimes that becomes three, or four months, and no one ever really seems to mind. In any case, in the course of discussions Josh inquired about the fee for Charlotte's trip to Riccione last month. Zero! In Italy, if you qualify for the National Championships, the Federation pays your way! Now that's actually a legitimate reason not want foreigners competing. But, I applaud their system. Finally, a real meritocracy. No one asks to see your income statement in order to determine whether you could pay, or should pay. Everyone is treated the same - if your child is fast enough to qualify, they get to go. Brava Italia!

After swimming, Olivia went to a birthday party tonight. I received a text message on my cell phone (4 days notice) asking if Olivia could attend the 7:30pm dinner party (on a school night) for her friend, Matilde's 8th birthday. Sure, why not! Olivia had a great time. She was all smiles when she cam home.