Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Leaving Tuscany for Rome


We really didn’t start packing until after breakfast. We thought it would be a leisurely morning and the kids could swim in the pool for the last time while we organized. But in fact, for the first time since we’d arrived, they didn’t want to swim…perhaps, we were leaving just in time. Then, we were surprised when the villa was invaded by the housekeepers who had come to pick up all the linens and begin the cleaning process. Thus, our leisurely packing picked up speed.

Once Josh packed up the car, we drove to the town of Marsiliana to “check out” at the Corsini office. We also hiked up to the castle and, as promised during the olive oil tasting there last week, we were admitted to climb up the tower. At the top, we had wonderful 360degree views of the entire surrounding valley and the sea. Avery was fidgety and Olivia was not feeling well, so we made the visit brief. Then, we began the drive back to Rome.

We were just 60 km outside of Rome when we were pulled over by the Polizia. Josh thought the problem was that he had strapped a duffle bag to the roof. But in fact, the issue was that his bike on the rear bike rack was blocking the car’s license plate. The police insisted he move the bike. The problem was that there was no place to move it to – the car was jammed full of luggage and passengers. Italian law requires that you have a special license plate that goes over the rack in the back. So we agreed to make a make-shift one on a piece of cardboard donated by the gas-station attendant (we had pulled over at a gas station). Good thing Avery had magic markers in his back-pack.

We were back on the road, but not before being issued a 116euro ticket for the infraction. In addition to the errant bike on the back of the car, we were informed that any driver in the EU is obligated to have his/her driver’s license translated into the language of the country in which the car is being driven – now that’s a new one. Needless to say, with all of the languages and drivers in Europe, a logistical nightmare. Could the police have been making this one up?

We arrived at the Polo Hotel in our old Parioli neighborhood just around 4pm. As soon as we’d checked in, I ran over to the market next door to buy sandwich provisions. We hadn’t really eaten much other than grissini (bread stick) for lunch. Going to a restaurant or bar wasn’t an option – everything was closed for the Feragosto vacation. Driving into Rome could not have been easier. There was no traffic. In centro, everything would be business as ususal – but without the Italians. Whereas in the Parioli, it was practically a ghost town.

We decamped at the hotel, took showers, and then headed off in the evening. We drove to Trastevere, but the restaurant we were heading to was….(predictably) closed; one of the few in this neighborhood. So we chose instead Da Luca, a place we’d eaten early on in our Italian adventure. We had come full circle. We had a great dinner except Olivia was still not feeling well and really hadn’t eaten much the entire day. Avery was beginning to tire out. We were going to go to the Tevere river festival but had to opt out in order to get him to bed.

Back at the hotel, Charlotte and I took an excursion around the neighborhood. We found a few things open. Most importantly, we located the Gracchi gelateria on Regina Margherita and found it open. It was really nice to sit alone with Charlotte and enjoy a cone. I think we were both getting nostalgic about the fact that our time in Italy was up.

Charlotte and I shared a room at the hotel tonight. Josh slept with Olivia and Avery in another room.


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