Terme di Diocleziano

Josh and I did our respective exersize this morning -- he on his bike and me on the elliptical trainer at AquAniene. (When the weather is nice, it's a damn shame that my knees and spine don't like to run.) Back at home, we packed a picnic lunch and rode our bikes to the Terme di Diocleziano.

The gargantuan Baths of Diocletian were built in 298 AD and became the largest such baths in Rome, accommodating 3000 bathers simultaneously -- twice as many as Terme di Caracalla in Aventino which was built about 100 years earlier. The Terme di Diocleziano covered 12 hectares and included gymnasiums, changing rooms, libraries, meeting rooms, theaters, concert halls and sculpture gardens in addition to the baths themselves.

Unlike the ruins of the Terme di Caracalla, there is not much of the original structure of the Diocletian's baths remaining. Their central location meant that it was prime real estate, and perfect for re-use. What was once the excedera of the baths is now the Piazza della Republica; what was once the frigidarium is now the renaissance Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli -- a church designed by Michelangelo in 1563, but built by Jacopo Lo Duca.

In fact, the Terme di Diocleziano are now a part of the Museo Nazionale Romano, and as such house part of the museum's archaeological collection -- although only a very small part as the most important sculptures are in the nearby Palazzo Massimo. Within the baths, there is a cloister (the design is attributed to Michelangelo) belonging to the neighboring Church of Santa Maria delgi Angelli, filled with altars and funerary monuments with inscriptions. Aside from the cloister, much of the museum is used as exhibition space. The current exhibit relates to the original (pre-Roman) inhabitants of Lazio dating back to the 10th century B.C. On display are the personal effects of these peoples that were found in their burial chambers.

So, while Josh and I thought we'd be picnicking in the ancient baths, we picnicked in the 16th century cloister instead, and then wandered around the musueum. Afterwards, Josh left to make his haircut appointment, while I went next door to visit the neighboring Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angelli. Coincidentally, the church was hosting an exhibition on Galileo, but the reason I went inside was to get a sense of the proportions of what was once just one of the rooms of the Baths of Diocletian. It was really incredible to see the scale of the frigidarium alone.

From here, I rode my bike past Termini to search for the Church of Santa Sabbina which was designed by Bernini. I found the church and, as expected, it was closed since it was after 12:30pm; but was surprised to see the condition it was in. Tucked behind the train station, it was located in a dumpy area and even had graffiti on part of the facade. Such a shame. Although, you never know...it might be worth returning to see what's inside.

On my way home I got lost riding through the very ethnic Esquilino neighborhood. But, it was interesting to see this part of Rome. Eventually, I found my way to Piazza Barberini and rode home up the Via Veneto.

I picked up kids up from school and the girls had their piano lesson. They've both really improved their skills this year. It was helpful that we actually had a piano in the villa on which they could practice. And, even more interesting, that they did practice!

Our friends Brad and Janice arrived in Rome tonight -- after a long trip from the Bay area -- and just in time for a Roman welcome cocktail: a spritz! We enjoyed a light Italian dinner - caprese salad and porcini mushroom ravioli, and then Josh took them to Gracchi for gelato and for a tour about town.