San Francesco a Ripa e Santa Cecilia

I've made an observation in my recent transatlantic crossings. People flying to Rome, as opposed to, say, London are generally not traveling to conduct business. Since I used to fly regularly to London, I was used to flying with passengers who had one thing on their mind: sleep. However, coming over to Rome, it's less about getting any sleep and more about drinking wine, eating and enjoying the flight -- the things people do when they're going on vacation. No one puts their shades down, no one seems concerned with sleeping much...which makes it slightly more difficult for those of us that just want to put a good night in. After all, I had "work" to do when I landed.

As soon as I arrived this morning, I jumped back in to my professional life as a tourist in Rome. I got to our villa at around 9:35, and left at 10am to join my last "Nancy walk" of my year here. Nancy primarily conducts private tours in June and then takes a hiatus for the rest of the summer. Today, we met in front of the Church of San Francesco a Ripa in Trastevere. The original church on this site dates back to between the 10th and the 12th centuries and included a convent where San Francesco d'Assisi stayed during his visit to Rome in 1229. But, the facade and the interior have been significantly altered over the centuries; construction of the present church began in 1603. We discussed the life of San Francesco d'Assisi and the philosophy of the Franciscan order -- relinquishing all material possessions and dedicating life to serving the poor and suffering in imitation of Christ.

Inside, we first went to through the sacresty and upstairs to the small room that served as San Francesco's quarters. In keeping with his teachings, the room was a gray cell and the gray stone he used for a pillow still remains. However, this room too was enhanced in the 17th century by the addition of a beautiful piece of furniture called a ???, made of burled walnut. It had three panels with paintings on them; the middle one displaying a portrait of the Saint himself. But, voila! Pull a lever and the three panels spin around and on the other side glass cases displaying relics of various saints are showcased. Quite a surprise. This room can only be visited by special permit.

Then, we went back downstairs and in to the church itself to see yet another masterful sculpture by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. In the Paluzzi-Albertoni chapel, there is the statue of Ludovica Albertoni and depicts her in the moment that life is leaving her body. The sculpture (1674) was one of Bernini's last, and recalls the magnificent one of Santa Teresa in Ecstasy in the Church of San Vittorio, with its drapery made of marble. Beata Ludovica Albertoni was born to a wealthy family and married off very young. She had three children and was subsequently widowed. She fought for ten years for the return of her dowry and finally won. She split the dowry among her children, and then devoted the rest of her life to religion and helping the poor. She died in 1533. She was beatified by Pope Clement the X in 1671. In the Bernini sculpture, she is portrayed as experiencing both mortal suffering and religious ecstasy. A recessed and hidden side window bathes her in natural light. See a photo of the sculpture here:

http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/b/bernini/gianlore/sculptur/1670/ludovica.html

Afterwards, we walked over to visit the Church of Santa Cecilia. For me, it was a great discovery. Again, the church, it's entrance, and courtyard have been altered, but the original structure dates back to the 3rd century! Here, we not only visited the church and it's centerpiece, an unusual, mysterious sculpture of Santa Cecilia, but also the monk's choir upstairs and the excavations and crypt beneath the church.

The original church was constructed under Pope Urban I in the 3rd century, and dedicated to the Roman martyr Santa Cecilia; the church was built on top of her house. Santa Cecilia lived in the 2nd century and was martyred along with her husband, Valerian, and her husband's brother, Tibertius. After the two men were killed (for practicing Christianity), the Roman officers secretly tried to murder Cecilia by steaming her to death in the baths adjacent to her home. When that failed, they tried to behead her. However, after three whacks, she was still alive (apparently, there was a "cease and desist" rule after three tries). She hung on for three days and received the sacrament of holy communion before she died. Legend has it that she sang to God on her death bed; that is why Santa Cecilia became the patron Saint of Music.

The church was rebuilt in 822 by Pope Paschal I, and then again in the 1700's. The current facade dates to 1725 by Ferdinando Fuga, and includes a courtyard decorated with ancient mosaics, columns and a cantharus (water vessel).

One of the most remarkable works in the church is the altar sculpture of Santa Cecilia from 1600 by the late-renaissance sculptor Stefano Maderno. The sculpture is allegedly modeled on the Saint's body as seen in 1595 when her tomb was opened. The Saint's face is turned down and the attempted decapitation is evident along the back of her neck. The style is proto-Baroque and striking in that it precedes by decades the similar high-Baroque sculptures of Bernini such as the Ludovica we'd just seen in San Francesco a Ripa.

For a small fee, we then went upstairs to the monk's choir to see the three story tall fresco of the Final Judgement painted by Pietro Cavallini from 1289 to 1293. The fresco is well preserved because for centuries the choir stalls were pushed up against the wall. Then, for another small fee, we visited the excavations, underneath the Church, of the Roman Republic era homes including that of Santa Cecilia. Also underground is the crypt which houses the sarcophagii of Santa Cecilia, San Valerian and San Tibertius. While absolutely beautiful, the crypt was constructed in the early 1900's in a faux-medieval style.

By the time we left the church, it was already 1pm. I walked a bit in Trastevere with Nancy and a group that was going to lunch in the Jewish Ghetto across the river. Along the way, she pointed out what used to be the oldest synagogue in Rome; it's now a restaurant. I said good-bye to Nancy -- I've learned so much from her and so enjoyed her tours. I will always try to reconnect with her when in Rome.

I then drove home and joined Josh for a late lunch in our garden. Soon, it was time to pick up the kids. Only the girls were coming home with me since Avery was staying for calcio, but I went to see him and gave him a big hug. Then I greeted Olivia with a squeeze. I had already seen Charlotte when I arrived this morning. Josh had taken her the Wilco concert at the Auditorium last night (which I was sorry to miss), and since they didn't get home until midnight, he let her sleep in today. Not the best precedent to set, but we can always chalk it up to "only in Rome."

By the way, it sounds like the concert was great fun. I really want to try to see another show at the Auditorium before we leave Rome.

I sat in the garden with the girls while they ate their pre-swimming dinners -- the first seating.

Then, when Avery came home from calcio, I sat with him for his dinner -- the second seating. After I picked Olivia up from Aniene, she joined Josh and I, and had her second dinner -- the third seating. Finally, when Charlotte came home from practice, she ate again, as she always does -- the fourth seating. And, that is how it goes most nights.