San Francesco a Ripa e Santa Cecilia

I've made an observation in my recent transatlantic crossings. People flying to Rome, as opposed to, say, London are generally not traveling to conduct business. Since I used to fly regularly to London, I was used to flying with passengers who had one thing on their mind: sleep. However, coming over to Rome, it's less about getting any sleep and more about drinking wine, eating and enjoying the flight -- the things people do when they're going on vacation. No one puts their shades down, no one seems concerned with sleeping much...which makes it slightly more difficult for those of us that just want to put a good night in. After all, I had "work" to do when I landed.

As soon as I arrived this morning, I jumped back in to my professional life as a tourist in Rome. I got to our villa at around 9:35, and left at 10am to join my last "Nancy walk" of my year here. Nancy primarily conducts private tours in June and then takes a hiatus for the rest of the summer. Today, we met in front of the Church of San Francesco a Ripa in Trastevere. The original church on this site dates back to between the 10th and the 12th centuries and included a convent where San Francesco d'Assisi stayed during his visit to Rome in 1229. But, the facade and the interior have been significantly altered over the centuries; construction of the present church began in 1603. We discussed the life of San Francesco d'Assisi and the philosophy of the Franciscan order -- relinquishing all material possessions and dedicating life to serving the poor and suffering in imitation of Christ.

Inside, we first went to through the sacresty and upstairs to the small room that served as San Francesco's quarters. In keeping with his teachings, the room was a gray cell and the gray stone he used for a pillow still remains. However, this room too was enhanced in the 17th century by the addition of a beautiful piece of furniture called a ???, made of burled walnut. It had three panels with paintings on them; the middle one displaying a portrait of the Saint himself. But, voila! Pull a lever and the three panels spin around and on the other side glass cases displaying relics of various saints are showcased. Quite a surprise. This room can only be visited by special permit.

Then, we went back downstairs and in to the church itself to see yet another masterful sculpture by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. In the Paluzzi-Albertoni chapel, there is the statue of Ludovica Albertoni and depicts her in the moment that life is leaving her body. The sculpture (1674) was one of Bernini's last, and recalls the magnificent one of Santa Teresa in Ecstasy in the Church of San Vittorio, with its drapery made of marble. Beata Ludovica Albertoni was born to a wealthy family and married off very young. She had three children and was subsequently widowed. She fought for ten years for the return of her dowry and finally won. She split the dowry among her children, and then devoted the rest of her life to religion and helping the poor. She died in 1533. She was beatified by Pope Clement the X in 1671. In the Bernini sculpture, she is portrayed as experiencing both mortal suffering and religious ecstasy. A recessed and hidden side window bathes her in natural light. See a photo of the sculpture here:

http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/b/bernini/gianlore/sculptur/1670/ludovica.html

Afterwards, we walked over to visit the Church of Santa Cecilia. For me, it was a great discovery. Again, the church, it's entrance, and courtyard have been altered, but the original structure dates back to the 3rd century! Here, we not only visited the church and it's centerpiece, an unusual, mysterious sculpture of Santa Cecilia, but also the monk's choir upstairs and the excavations and crypt beneath the church.

The original church was constructed under Pope Urban I in the 3rd century, and dedicated to the Roman martyr Santa Cecilia; the church was built on top of her house. Santa Cecilia lived in the 2nd century and was martyred along with her husband, Valerian, and her husband's brother, Tibertius. After the two men were killed (for practicing Christianity), the Roman officers secretly tried to murder Cecilia by steaming her to death in the baths adjacent to her home. When that failed, they tried to behead her. However, after three whacks, she was still alive (apparently, there was a "cease and desist" rule after three tries). She hung on for three days and received the sacrament of holy communion before she died. Legend has it that she sang to God on her death bed; that is why Santa Cecilia became the patron Saint of Music.

The church was rebuilt in 822 by Pope Paschal I, and then again in the 1700's. The current facade dates to 1725 by Ferdinando Fuga, and includes a courtyard decorated with ancient mosaics, columns and a cantharus (water vessel).

One of the most remarkable works in the church is the altar sculpture of Santa Cecilia from 1600 by the late-renaissance sculptor Stefano Maderno. The sculpture is allegedly modeled on the Saint's body as seen in 1595 when her tomb was opened. The Saint's face is turned down and the attempted decapitation is evident along the back of her neck. The style is proto-Baroque and striking in that it precedes by decades the similar high-Baroque sculptures of Bernini such as the Ludovica we'd just seen in San Francesco a Ripa.

For a small fee, we then went upstairs to the monk's choir to see the three story tall fresco of the Final Judgement painted by Pietro Cavallini from 1289 to 1293. The fresco is well preserved because for centuries the choir stalls were pushed up against the wall. Then, for another small fee, we visited the excavations, underneath the Church, of the Roman Republic era homes including that of Santa Cecilia. Also underground is the crypt which houses the sarcophagii of Santa Cecilia, San Valerian and San Tibertius. While absolutely beautiful, the crypt was constructed in the early 1900's in a faux-medieval style.

By the time we left the church, it was already 1pm. I walked a bit in Trastevere with Nancy and a group that was going to lunch in the Jewish Ghetto across the river. Along the way, she pointed out what used to be the oldest synagogue in Rome; it's now a restaurant. I said good-bye to Nancy -- I've learned so much from her and so enjoyed her tours. I will always try to reconnect with her when in Rome.

I then drove home and joined Josh for a late lunch in our garden. Soon, it was time to pick up the kids. Only the girls were coming home with me since Avery was staying for calcio, but I went to see him and gave him a big hug. Then I greeted Olivia with a squeeze. I had already seen Charlotte when I arrived this morning. Josh had taken her the Wilco concert at the Auditorium last night (which I was sorry to miss), and since they didn't get home until midnight, he let her sleep in today. Not the best precedent to set, but we can always chalk it up to "only in Rome."

By the way, it sounds like the concert was great fun. I really want to try to see another show at the Auditorium before we leave Rome.

I sat in the garden with the girls while they ate their pre-swimming dinners -- the first seating.

Then, when Avery came home from calcio, I sat with him for his dinner -- the second seating. After I picked Olivia up from Aniene, she joined Josh and I, and had her second dinner -- the third seating. Finally, when Charlotte came home from practice, she ate again, as she always does -- the fourth seating. And, that is how it goes most nights.

25th Reunion - DAY 4

While I was here in Cambridge, Josh and the kids were surviving without me in Rome. Josh took Olivia and Avery to watch Charlotte swim in a meet at the Foro Italico (home of the 1960 Olympics and the 2009 World Championships) where there was the added bonus of a car show. He also took the kids to the park and took some great photos of them.

Charlotte only swam three events over the two days and her best showing (in terms of time improvement) came in the last event - 100 meters butterfly - where she clocked a 1:10.80, just a second short of a national qualifying time.

Back in Cambridge, I tried to get my fix at Starbucks again this morning. This time with a double espresso...but it still didn't measure up. Today's reunion breakfast was a farewell brunch, and so lasted well over 2 hours as we hopped from table to table saying our good-byes, and giving hugs and kisses all around. Then I returned to our dorm to do a little yoga (boy was I sore from that massage yesterday), and pack up my belongings. I had brought two huge duffel bags as my sister was taking one (full of winter clothes) back with her to Detroit, and I packed all my new (summer) purchases in the other to bring back with me to Rome

I still had time to go shopping for the kids at the GAP while I waited to meet Niki and Tod. That's just what Italy is missing: the GAP. Once Niki and Tod arrived we walked back to the Yard and dropped their luggage off in my dorm room. I had seen tour groups coming through the Yard all weekend long, with energetic student guides spouting off all kinds of interesting, historical information. Today, a tour was organized for the 25th reunion class and I thought it might be fun to join. Niki was reluctant, but humored us. The guide was late, but the tour eventually got underway. It was, indeed, interesting. I never knew where John Adams, John Hancock or Sam Adams lived. I never knew why there were divots in the ground in front of Hollis Hall. I did know the "three lies" about the John Harvard statue, but had forgotten. Also forgotten, was why freshman were required to take a swim test in my day (Harry Widener, of Widener Library fame, died on the Titanic and his mother, before bequeathing the funds for the construction of the library, mandated that all entering freshman pass a 50 yard swim test!). Due to the Americans with Disabilities Act, this swim test is no longer required.

My friend, Sheryl, came in to Cambridge to meet us for lunch, and we cut the tour short because it was already 2pm, but it had been fun -- at least for me, now that I'm a professional tour taker. It was another gorgeous day in Cambridge -- picture perfect. The four of us walked over to Charlie's -- one of the few eateries from 1985 that still remains in Harvard Square. It was so nice spend this time with Sheryl, and Niki and Tod. I did wonder though what would happen if we didn't collect our luggage from the dorm room by 3pm as we were ordered to do at registration. Shortly, we found out when my key card no longer worked for entrance into the dorm!! Luckily for us, there was a family of stragglers coming out, and they let us in! Now, with luggage in hand, there was not much more to do but find a taxi to the airport.

As we schlepped all (my) stuff into the Square (thanks to Sheryl, there were four of us), a driver saw us coming and flagged us down. He offered us a ride to the airport in his van for a fixed price. That was a great idea since, come to think of it, how would all three of us and all our luggage fit into just one taxi cab. I said my good-byes to Sheryl, and the three of us piled into the van. The driver did not stop talking for the entire ride to the airport. At that point, I thought he should have been paying us...to listen.

I got out of the van (at the first possible opportunity) with Niki and Tod, and bid them adieu before walking over to the international terminal. I had plenty of time but the security system is comprised exclusively of x-ray style machines now, and thus the wait times much longer. Eventually, I made it through to the other side, and boarded my flight for my return to Rome.

25th Reunion - DAY 3

After 36 hours in the States, I seriously felt the need for a real cup of coffee by the time I woke up on Saturday morning. The brown-colored water served at Annenberg yesterday was a poor excuse for coffee, and for some reason I never made it to a coffee house. As expected, I was up before all of my roommates. Alone, I made a bee-line for Starbucks. Unfortunately, what I recalled as good coffee was now just disappointing. Still, better than Harvard coffee, though. I walked around the Square, coffee in hand, and eventually headed for breakfast. Afterwards, many of my roommates were heading for the Memorial Service but I passed. The Service was to commemorate the dozens of classmates who were no longer with us. An important pause for thought, but I would do my reflecting on the yoga mat in my dorm room.

Later, I headed back to the Square to do a little shopping; I had to pick up the obligatory Harvard memorabilia for the kiddies at the Coop. I also hit the bookstore to buy a Studs Terkel text, one of several books that Charlotte will need to read (and write about) this summer in preparation for her 8th grade year at The Latin School, back in Chicago. But, more on that later.

At 11:45am, it was time to head to the steps of Widener Library for our class photo. The weather had been absolutely wonderful since I'd arrived. But during the photo session -- which lasted far longer than seemed necessary -- the sun was directly overhead and beating down on all of us, and it was HOT. Everyone milled around Tercentenary theater, or the "New Yard," for a while before beginning the migration across the Charles River for field day. Once again, I became separated from my friends/roommates and found myself walking alone. And, at the same time, I found my stomach rumbling. Had I not been alone, I may not have stopped, but the delicious scent coming from B.Goode's (a new burger joint) was too enticing. Thus far at this reunion, when I have actually been able to eat (ie. not talking), the food has been .... not so good, and not so hot. I couldn't resist the opportunity to sit down alone and chow down a good 'ole American burger and fries. It hit the spot.

Across the river, the "field day" lunch was served indoors in the steamy hockey rink. And immediately, I knew I'd made the right call by eating before I'd arrived. The hamburgers looked like hockey-pucks -- how appropriate. I was able to chat with many more classmates, and discovered some small world stories. One classmate and her husband dropped out of life on Wall Street and in Connecticut and spent a summer in Italy before moving to Santa Barbara and reinventing themselves. Another classmate -- a New Yorker -- is now living in Seattle; turns out she married a hedge fund of funds guy I know. Rich Appel, the funny MC from the talent show, is friends with my friends Cami and Howard in LA, and on and on it goes.

Eventually, I made it out of the steamy hockey rink and sat on the lawn with my roommate Rachel and her family. She and her husband Mike have turned out a couple of wonderful kids. Field day is also family day so everyone's kids were about. I also got to see Dora and Martha Wedner.

Lucky for me, I had a massage scheduled for this afternoon. Josh reminded me before I left Rome that our favorite massage therapist from Chicago is now living in Boston. I contacted him by email and arranged to meet him in a friend's room at the Charles Hotel. It was one of those "it hurts so good" experiences. I really needed it. My timing was perfect -- it rained during my massage and the sun came out again for my walk back to Weld.

Tonight was the 25th reunion Gala dinner and dance. All my roommates and I were in our penthouse suite at Weld trying on outfits, putting on make-up, and gossiping ahead of the big affair. But it was getting late. We decided to take the shuttle bus across the river this time and ended up getting a tour of Cambridge. Still, those in heals were spared the walk.

By now, the whole reunion affair was turning into an endurance contest. The Gala was fun for a while, but then fizzled out. The band was loud (as bands tend to be) making it difficult to talk. Already many had lost their voice. I stuck it out for a while, but then took the shuttle bus back to the Yard with Mary Jane. It was time for some sleep.

25th Reunion - DAY 2

Even with all the bright light streaming in through the blind, I managed to sleep, on and off, until 7am. I took a walk to the breakfast area – the students no longer eat at the "Union;" all freshman meals are now served in Annenberg Hall which is located adjacent to Memorial Hall. But, I couldn't linger. I had to solve my lack-of-phone problem. Since I’d had no luck getting anyone to answer the lost cell phone, it was time to head over to the nearest AT&T store and buy another device. I walked over to Harvard Square, and took the "T" to the Fresh Pond Mall. I was able to get my cell phone number transferred onto a $15 phone, and I was back in business.

I had plans to meet my Boston-based friend, Sheryl, this morning. So, instead of meeting in Harvard Square as planned, I asked her to meet me at the Fresh Pond Mall. Since I still had some time, I took the opportunity to do some shopping. I did a drugstore run and picked up all the essentials that are hard to find or too expensive in Rome: sun-block, dental floss, deodorant, etc. Then, I went to Trader Joe’s. The kids will (hopefully) appreciate the pancake mix and maple syrup. I also bought a bag of raw almonds for myself. Both the CVS and Trader Joe’s were beautiful -- large, wide aisles, well-marked, clean. It did make me miss the ease of shopping in America.

Sheryl finally arrived (traffic), and we drove back to Harvard Square together. It was so great to see her. She was kind enough to bring along all the “stuff” that I had shipped to her from my on-line orders. Once we “paahked the caah near Hahvad Yahd” we walked over to my dorm room to drop off all the goods. We ended up hanging out there, talking to my roommate Mary Jane, and trying on the new clothes from the GAP. Too soon, it was already time for lunch and Sheryl had to head home.

Today was to be a “house lunch.” Meaning an opportunity to eat lunch in "houses" where we'd lived for the three years after freshman year, and reconnect with house-mates. Unfortunately, Mary Jane and I had walked all the way down to Eliot House, before she remembered that we were supposed to pick up the “box lunch” in Mem. Hall beforehand ie. very far away. Still, given the long lines at all the fast-food places in the Square, we schlepped up to the Yard, and picked up what ever was left over to eat, and walked back down to Eliot a second time.

The turnout for the “house lunch” was not too great; and I spent the entire time talking with Anne’s husband, Marcus -- our close friends from Chicago. Even better than seeing old classmates that I haven’t been in touch with for the past 5, 10, or more years, was spending time with good friends that I have been in touch with, but haven't seen since we've been living in Rome.

After eating, I visited my "home away from home" during college: Kirkland House. I had just as many, if not more friends that lived there during college and unlike the turnout at Eliot House, many of them were there for lunch today. One of them, now an orthopedic surgeon, was kind enough to walk back to the Yard and up to my dorm room with me in order to look at an x-ray of Josh's leg. This morning, Josh finally went to see an orthopedist in Rome. The wounds in his leg had still not healed properly. The doctor took an x-ray and concluded the hardware was causing an irritation and must come out. Josh emailed the film to me, and I was able to get my friend to give him a second opinion -- over the phone. It's great to have email (clearly something that didn't exist 25 years ago), and nice friends in all lines of work.

By now, it was time to get ready for the evening's outing. Once we'd both changed, Dr. Scott came back by and we walked down to the Charles Hotel where we were meeting many of our friends (Bruce, Carl, Dave, Kurt, Barry, Kat, George) for a drink. From there, we walked across the river to the indoor track facility where our dinner was being held. I was able to chat with Kathleen and her husband Chris. It was an early dinner because by 6:45pm we had to be on board one of the dozens of school buses parked outside for our "police escort" to Symphony Center. Harvard had bought out the Boston Pops for the evening, and the 25th reunion class was treated to a customized performance including, you guessed it, some talented members of our own class and the class of '75! On the bus I sat with Greg. At the concert I sat with Ben, Heidi, Anne and Marcus. While the performance was nice, we felt a little itchy towards the end, so Ben, Heidi and I ducked out and grabbed a cab back to Harvard Square. They went in search of food. I went to the 20th reunion party at Kirkland House to see my sister and brother-in-law. Their reunion party seemed somewhat sparsely attended, but the fresh fruit, brownies and fresh whipped cream were great for dessert. Oh, and I was happy to see Niki and Tod for the first time since last summer too.

Pretty soon I was pooped and walked back to the Yard and my penthouse suite at Weld. Of course I kibitzed and compared notes with my roommates before going to bed -- just like old times!

25th Reunion - DAY 1

For a minute there (OK maybe for 10 minutes) I thought I might miss my flight to Boston. After dropping Charlotte and Olivia off at RIS (Avery was walking to the Zoo with Morris this morning to meet his class for their field trip to the Bioparco), we hit incredible, stand-still traffic on the GRA. Josh made a few aggressive maneuvers, and fortunately the traffic started flowing again – there had been an accident.

Even the Alitalia agent who checked me in for my flight told me to hurry up as the flight was closed. Still, I was at the gate at 9:20, right on time for boarding, for my 10am scheduled departure time. In the end though, we sat on the plane for some reason for an hour and half and left at 11:30am. Go figure.

Upon arrival, Logan airport seemed dead. I quickly walked through immigration, received my luggage (always a relief) and hopped in a cab for Cambridge. I must have gotten out of the cab just as quickly because left my cell phone in it. I spent the next two hours trying to track down my phone (no answer), or one of my college roommates so I’d at least have a contact number if the phone was found. By 5pm I gave up, and returned to my dorm room.

I’ve really moved up in the world of Harvard; my roommates and I were assigned the top floor at Weld -- one of the best located houses in Harvard Yard. It couldn’t have been a nicer set up, with views over-looking the commencement address being given by Justice Souter. While the bathroom is down the hall, my quarters are roomy and very comfortable. This was a long way from my freshman year dorm. (Twenty-five years ago, I had been assigned to one of only three dorms that were located outside the Yard -- like well-outside -- AND, I had a triple. That's right, 3 girls in one bedroom!) One by one, Paula, Mary, and Kirsten rolled in from commencement exercises. Rachel had been taking a nap (some things never change). It was great to see all of them. Later, Mary Jane would show up; she ended up with the bed in the living room -- just like old times.

Tonight’s dinner was served under a tent near the Science Center; trouble is that it’s hard to actually eat and talk to people you haven't seen (in at least 5; if not 25 years) at the same time. No one was sitting at any of the dozens of tables. Everyone was happy making connections with former classmates.

After the dinner, we all walked to Saunders Theater for the Class Talent Show. I was wondering who in our graduating class had talent. Apparently, many of my classmates at least think they have talent -- 3 hours worth of talent. Seriously, many are in fact gifted singers, and the MC, Rich Appel was really funny. But, there were definitely a few bits I could’ve done without. Conan wrapped it up with his TV (Legally Prohibited) band. I had been expecting comedy; who knew he could sing and play guitar?!?

After the show, everyone was let loose for drinks and, thankfully, more food in another tent inside the yard. Thus far, the 25th reunion event seems really well-organized. The student workers are extremely professional and helpful. Was I that mature and well-spoken at 20? The student porter who helped me up to my room is leaving for Rome in 3 weeks, and will be studying Italian in Abruzzo on a Harvard summer school program. What a coincidence. I tipped him in euros!

An outing to get Charlotte's hair cut

Olivia went back to school today. She seemed perfectly fine and her spots were gone and so I saw no reason to keep her home another two days. Plus, she was supposed to go on a field trip with her Italian class today. They were visiting an Italian school and meeting the Italian students. When I dropped the kids off, I went up to see Ivana to ask if I needed to sign a permission slip. While in her classroom, Ivana showed me a test that Charlotte had completed yesterday. It was two pages of writing with virtually no mistakes. My daughter is not only a fluent Italian speaker; but a fluent Italian writer too. I am so proud.

While I was at the school, I also stopped by the nurse's offices and FINALLY dropped off the kids vaccination forms. It turns out, Olivia did get a chicken pox vaccine, and also a booster.

Otherwise it was are regular day. I worked out in the morning; did some laundry; and, started to pack for my trip to Boston. I managed to get my nails done, even though I made the appointment at the wrong location. I had no idea "my" nail place even had two locations, but apparently I had called their other store when I scheduled my appointment. When I arrived, she called, and confirmed that Fabianna was expecting me at Piazza Fiume. I had ridden my bike and hadn't brought a map, but Josh helped me navigate there over the phone.

Afterwards, I took Charlotte to get her haircut -- finally; her first in Rome. She really wasn't happy about it, although it came out looking great. Olivia came with us and entertained the guys at the Salon. At Noi, they have English magazines and both girls went right for the People.

We took the bus part of the way through Villa Borghese, and then walked home. Charlotte went to swim practice, and then to a birthday party afterwards. Josh and I tried to eat with Olivia and Avery in the garden but there were a few problems. First, I was on phone with the insurance company for an hour trying to get a simple piece of information about the dental plan I was considering. Then Avery, without a nap today, was too tired and started putting tree leaves in the salad. He was removed from the table and taken to his room; but then he was hungry and allowed to rejoin us. Once everyone had settled down (including me, from the infuriating experience of speaking to 5 representatives at Blue Care Dental without getting an answer to a simple question), Olivia entertained us with a singing performance. That was truly delightful.

I finished packing and then went to pick Charlotte up from her party. Of course, Charlotte was embarrassed by my presence because the party wasn't over yet. (Come to think of it, I don't know if there has been one Italian birthday party that our kids have attended has has ending "on time.") Still, I had been invited for dinner but declined, so now I joined the adult table and chatted with some of the other parents while I waited for Charlotte. It's amazing to see how much she's grown up this year.

Percorsi d'Italiano

With Olivia at home, I realized that home schooling is not for me. I have a hard enough time getting the kids to listen to me when I ask them to pick up their clothes, let alone when I try to give Math instruction. After two pages, I let Olivia talk me into doing the next two pages tomorrow! When Josh returned from his ride (actually, shortly before he returned, but she is almost eight!) I left for my latest attempt at an Italian lesson.

At the AWAR gala at Villa Taverna a few weeks back, I bid on, and won an Italian lesson from

Percorsi d'Italiano language school. I had called and scheduled my lesson for today. I loved it.

It is a really a great concept. Instead of sitting in a classroom for two hours, you learn the language while walking the streets and coming into contact with every day life. I met the owner and my instructor for the morning, Giuliana, in front of a restaurant in the Testaccio neighborhood. I carried a clipboard with the lesson plan. As we walked, I learn the history as well as other interesting things about the neighborhood. At the same time, we covered the vocabulary, and grammar I was carrying on the clipboard. We checked out Monte Testaccio, we strolled the market, we talked about different types of lettuces, calcio, and saw the xxx, Rome's answer to low-income housing -- except the apartments are in a palazzo. I really enjoyed it. Her philosophy is that life is a journey (a percorso) of constant discovery, and learning a language should go beyond the assimilation of grammar rules.

I liked really liked Giuliana. She is Napolitano but is married to a German (one can see some of that in her) and also has three kids. It was a great way to spend part of a day and I hope to do it again.

It was an incredibly hot day. Both yesterday and today it was in the 90's. And because we were walking around, the sun must have been shining down my shirt because later I discovered a sunburn between my breasts! ( I would've said cleavage but that would be inaccurate).

Later I picked the kids up from school; Charlotte had gone on a field trip to see the Edward Hopper exhibit today. Josh and I have still not seen the show, but Charlotte said she really enjoyed it. Once home, I made a few phone calls to the States. On the business side of things, I am already in the process of completing applications for health insurance so that it will be in place by the time we return to Chicago. Needless to say, it's annoying and time consuming. Should I bother with dental? Both the dentist and orthodontist are "out of network." Given how easy things have been here, it underscores how craziness of the entire "system" is in the States.

After Charlotte went to swim practice, the four of us enjoyed a nice dinner out in the garden. Then, Olivia and Avery got ready for bed while Josh and I took a bike ride into town. We rode over to our new gelato place, Buccianti's, near the Pantheon. Then we sat in the Piazza del Pantheon and enjoyed the view -- the sqaure, the obelisk, the Pantheon, and the full moon -- and our gelato. The uphill ride home wasn't too bad.

Chicken pox? And, prima classificazione!!

What a day! As soon as I exited from the gym locker room, I got a call from Josh. Olivia was in the nurse's office with chicken pox. I couldn't believe it! So I drove back to the school (I had already been there dropping off the lunch Olivia had left at home) to collect her. The nurse said that even with vaccination (which Olivia had), it's possible to get a mild case. I was doubtful. She looked like she had a couple of mosquito bites, but didn't have any fever, not really any itching either. But she did sit in class next to a girl who had contracted chicken pox, so all evidence pointed to Olivia being next.

In any case, Josh went to the pharmacy, then he scheduled an appointment with a pediatrician. I guess if it's already near the end of May and this is our first visit to a pediatrician in Rome, we're doing okay. But first, Josh picked Charlotte up from school early (if you're keeping count this is now our 4th visit to RIS today) to take her to swim practice. She wouldn't be able to work out at the normal time because tonight was her piano recital. Then, I had another 3rd child lapse (remember, we forgot about Avery's parent/teacher conference), when I drove to school (5th trip) to pick him up. Oops, on Mondays, he has calcio after school; so I came home with an empty car. An hour later, when it was indeed time to pick him up, it just started raining, and I was walking because by this time Josh had the Olivia (and the car) at the pediatrician. After arriving at RIS (6th time today, but who's still counting), it began to pour. So, Avery and I waited inside the school, until Josh could swing by and pick us up.

Thirty minutes later, it was still pouring when we got into the car and we still had to go pick up Charlotte from AquAniene. During the rain storm, Morris had called saying the buses were slow and he would be late. So, after we got Charlotte in the car, we drove to the bus terminal to pick up Morris. Unfortunately, he'd gotten on some other bus, and we couldn't find him. At this point, the rain was torrential -- Josh could hardly see out the front window of the car -- and then, briefly, the rain turned into hail! By the time we got home, we had 15 minutes to eat something and change before leaving for the recital. Only problem was that we needed Morris, because taking Avery to the recital was not an option (especially after calcio). So, Josh went out again in search of Morris at yet another bus stop -- this time they connected successfully.

Since Olivia, despite being diagnosed by the pediatrician with a mild case of the chicken pox, was feeling perfectly fine. We decided she should participate in the recital -- she had worked all year towards it and it would be a shame for her to miss it. So off we went to Piazza Campitelli. We even arrived in time for the girls to have practice round on the recital piano. The setting for the recital was lovely, despite the enormous Jesus figure hanging off the wall. It was held in a period room which must have been part of an abbey in a prior time.

The performers were divided into classes beginning with "A" and going through "H." Olivia played in the "A" group; Charlotte played in the "E" group. Olivia played La Fiera del Vilaggio as a duet with her instructor. Charlotte played Habanera by Bizet. Both girls played their pieces really well, and we were very proud of them. At the conclusion, there was a 15 minute pause as the judges met. Then, awards were given out for each of the eight groups whereby the pianists were judged as performing prima, seconda or terza classificazione. Both Olivia and Charlotte were awarded prima classificazione!! And, they each received a big trophy with silver cup, marble base and all. The trophies were a huge hit!

By the time we arrived back at home it was almost 10pm. Josh still had to run out to the 24-hour pharmacy to pick up Olivia's medication. Finally, and the four of us sat down to a beautiful dinner that Morris had prepared. Wow. What a day!

Fregene

Domenico, the plumber, arrived as promised, this morning. Unfortunately, he was unable to fix the boiler and in fact discovered it had a broken part which needs to be replaced. We are hopeful that he will be able to find the part, and fix the problem tomorrow. Meanwhile, we're back to boiling water to wash up (again).

It was an absolutely beautiful day. But, by the time the plumber left, and everyone was ready to go, it was already 11:30. At this time of day, our drive to the beach was an hour instead of 30 minutes. Italians don't like to get up early on Sunday. So if we can get ourselves going by 10am we are well ahead of the pack. In any case, we drove to the beach at Fregene. The family of a classmate of Olivia's (and friends of ours too) has a house there, and belong to a beach club. They invited us to use their cabana and the facilities.

The beach club, Albos, was the nicest we've frequented thus far. Coincidentally, we saw a couple of other families from Rome International School there. Or, I should say, Charlotte recognized them. The club had four or so volleyball courts set up on the sand, and their was a calcio pitch set up with nets and all. There were also two playgrounds on the sand including a climbing wall and slides. For lunch we ate at the tavola calda, the informal grill, but there was also a fancier restaurant for seated meals upstairs. And all on the beach. But, most importantly, the club had a "TV room" with a nice flat screen were Josh could watch the Giro d'Italia's epic climb up Monte Zoncolan. It was a grueling 6 hours and 20 minutes for the stage winner today; my favorite, Ivan Basso!

The kids swam and played in the water; but it was still too cold for me. As we were standing near the shore, Olivia asked me "does this beach go all the way to France?" Yes it does. A long way away, but yes. Avery built volcanoes in the sand and collected shells to decorate. At the end of the day, Avery had even more sand in all of his crevices than Olivia. Between them, that's a lot of sand! Thankfully, the cabana had a private shower -- hot water included! So, we all showered and changed before getting back in the car.

We had spent the entire afternoon at the beach and by now it was almost 7pm. We drove into the quaint town center, and decided to have our Sunday pizza dinner in Fregene -- at the very same restaurant that we patronized on our 2nd day in Rome and our first visit to Fregene. I remember thinking (and writing in the Day 2 blog entry) how great the food was; and now, after spending some time in this country, I think its only average. Still, it's a super fun place for the kids who played on the swings and the little toy rides.

Two minutes after getting in the car for the drive home, Avery was asleep. We'd had a very fun day at the beach.

Mayfair and Retake Rome party

We had a late french toast breakfast this morning before heading off to Mayfair. Mayfair is the school's spring fundraising event. But it's not unique to RIS; AOSR and the New School were hosting their May fairs today, and certainly all the other international schools host the event as well. I was very pleasantly surprised that the affair was so well-organized. There were professional banners, inflatable bouncy things for the little kids, all kinds of carnival games, a treasure hunt, and a disco (the Italians are really into their disco). There was a BBQ with hot dogs and hamburgers, and tables set up with international and regional foods for sale. Of course there was also popcorn and cotton candy! There were also representatives from local shops selling all kinds of things from flower pots, to handbags, to artiginal honey. There was even a representative from Rome's first and recently opened bagel shop: Roma New York Bagels (and they deliver!!)

It was very hot today; we kept ducking into the shaded picnic area, or inside the school to keep cool. The kids had a lot of fun. After her backpack was filled with toys and prizes, Olivia announced she was ready to leave.

It was time to to go to our next party -- at Torretta di Massimi for Retake Rome. Anita Garibaldi (granddaughter of Giuseppe Garibaldi) was there, and the Girl Scouts, including Charlotte each received an award for their efforts to clean up Rome. Avery had been sticking to me like glue most of the day (including the 2 1/2 hours we spent at RIS this morning), but finally with some space to run free, he began to play and enjoy himself with the other kids. It was quite an elegant affair, and coming straight from Mayfair, I was a bit underdressed (although you could argue, wearing shorts and a t-shirt, I was underdressed for Mayfair as well). We were served cocktails and appetizers before lunch. Delicious strawberries for desert. Judging from the number of tables set, our hosts were expecting more guests, but there were about 40 of us in attendance. Everyone had fun. It was still very hot in the sun; too bad we didn't swim (the property has a pool) but the girls said the pool water was very cold.

Was 6pm by the time we came home. Shortly thereafter, Josh came home too. He had an incredible time these past four days following the Giro, meeting the athletes, the organizers and so many in the cycling industry. He had access to the restricted areas at the start of each stage, and to the Giro club at the finish. Yesterday, he even met Alberto Tomba at the Giro club. With Stefano, he also rode parts of the Giro route in Le Marche and in Abruzzo.

As soon as he arrived home, I put Josh on "project hot water." After speaking to the plumber and the realtor and leaving messages for the owner, there was still had no hot water but we were promised a visit by the plumber first thing tomorrow morning (which, given it's a Sunday, is a very big deal). Then, we worked on getting the kids settled -- which tonight was no small task. Finally, we sat outside and had dinner in the garden while Josh regaled me with Giro stories.

Charlotte's disco party

It was the same routine this morning; getting the kids packed off to school followed by a trip to AquAniene for me. It was such a beautiful day, it was a shame to have to work-out inside, so I made it brief. Again, I came home for lunch and enjoyed the solitude.

Last night, there had been no hot water in the house (AGAIN) and I thought our houseman had fixed the problem this morning. But later I would discover, the water still ran only cold. This has been a recurring problem and while I will miss certain aspects of living in this villa (like the garden and terrace) I will not miss the lack of a reliable boiler.

I ltook off on my bike after lunch, and rode through the Villa Borghese. It was truly a glorious day. I rode around in centro a bit before arriving for my haircut appointment. I really like Giuseppe who cuts my hair, and this is the third time I've been to him.

After I picked the kids up at school, we walked over to Piazza Ungheria to go shopping for a dress for Charlotte to wear to her piano recital next week. Needless to say, for a whole host of reasons, it wasn't ideal that Avery and Olivia were tagging along, but I had no choice. After insisting on trying on dresses that were either too small for her, or inappropriate for the occasion, we conceded after an hour that our efforts to find a dress at this particular store were unsuccessful.

At home, Morris was making dinner. I put Avery down for a nap, and took Olivia with me when I drove to drop Charlotte off at swim practice. Olivia and I then went for a pizza at Pariolina. We arrived at 7pm, and the restaurant was not quite open. We waited a few minutes and were then their first and only customers until we left at 8. It was cute having dinner with Olivia, and she really likes the attention. When I dropped her at home, Avery was still sleeping, never having woken up from his nap. I swung back around to AquAniene to pick up Charlotte and take her to her "disco party." Since I'm friendly with the parents, I went up with her and caught up with them over a glass of prosecco. To me, the unbelievable part was that they had planned to go out to dinner tonight. Having invited twenty-five 12 and 13 year old kids to their home, they were actually going to leave!!! Fortunately, amid the chaos, they reconsidered and stayed home -- although I'm not sure how involved in chaperoning they were.

Just as I was getting home at 9:30pm, Avery woke up from his nap. That means, he was up when it was time for me to return to pick Charlotte up at 11. So, he and I piled into the car in our PJs to collect her. The party was only 5 minutes from our house so it was pretty easy. What a wonderful life Charlotte has -- she's already been invited to another party for next week; and her chauffeur is all lined up.

Housework

Our housekeeper is away in Romania this week and next. I did three loads of laundry when I got home yesterday (including an overnight soak in bleach for Olivia's art-filled but supposed-to-be-white school shirts) and another three this morning. I made the kids breakfast, packed their lunch, took them to school, swept the floor, did the dishes and made my bed. There was some satisfaction in knowing that if I had to do housework, I could. But that was short-lived. I sure will be happy when Maria is back.

I made it to the gym. And took my time in the sauna. I had lunch alone, outside. It was peaceful and quiet -- the calm before the storm. Later, I made the kids their favorite dinner: chicken cutlets and pasta with parmesan, before loading everyone in to the car for an outing to AquAniene. Olivia had her lesson, Charlotte had practice, and Avery and I sat in the bar working on his math flash-cards (not all too successfully). I enjoyed a Spritz, and Avery enjoyed the snacks that came with it. Soon, it was time to take Olivia and Avery back home and put them to bed.

Napoli -- Day 2

We got an earlier start today. After breakfast, Josh and I cabbed over to the centro storico. It was walkable from our hotel, but we were in a hurry. We only had a couple of hours before we had to hit the road. Josh and Stefano were dropping me off in Rome and heading over to L'Aquila to see the finish of today's Giro stage.

Naples was founded in the 8th century BC and, as such, is one of the oldest cities in the world. It was originally a Greek colony and given the name Parthenope, then later Neopolis (new city) before becoming part of the Roman Republic. The historical city center is the largest in Europe. From 1282 until 1816, Naples was the capital city in a union with Sicily known as The Kingdom of Naples -- this was prior to Italy's unification. Today, Naples ranks 4th in Italy, behind Milan, Rome and Turin, in terms of economic strength. It's port is one of the most important in Europe.

In Naples's historical center, the streets are merely alleys. Here, there is a sort of grungy, third world feel to the place. We went in search of Caravaggios in the dozen or so churches that are located in this 5 block radius part of town -- but we only found one: The Seven Works of Mercy (1607) in the Pio Monte della Misericordia. By this time, having fled Rome after murder charges, Caravaggio was clearly depressed; and his work showed it. This painting was devoid of color -- it reminded me more of a black and white photograph than a painting. The church itself was small and also stark.

la Gesu Nuovo

We visited the The Pio Monte della Misericordia towards the end of our tour today. First we visited the Gesu Nuovo which is a really beautiful, well-maintained and richly decorated church. Then we peeked into the Chiesa Santa Chiara -- more well-known for its cloister around the back. We then strolled over to San Lorenzo. Significant excavations have been carried out at the site of this church, and the main draw is not the church, but the ancient Roman city underneath it. We arrived at San Lorenzo right at 9:30am just as it was opening -- we had the whole underground city to ourselves to explore. Upstairs, there is an interesting museum with a collection that spans 200o years. We browsed quickly. Afterwards we came across the Capella Monte di Pieta, and the adjoining art collection owned by the Banco di Napoli, but unfortunately it was closed. It is only open on Saturdays and Sundays in May (go figure?) but there is suppossed to be a Caravaggio painting inside. It seems, the city is on a tight budget. And, in this part, it looks it too.

Catacombs of San Lorenzo

For the finale, we went inside the Capella San Savero to see the famous Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino. I think both Josh and I were somewhat disappointed. Yes, it is a beautiful sculpture, but I think seeing so many fabulous Bernini's in Rome makes one jaded.

Back at the hotel, we checked out, and hit the road. By 2pm, I was home in Rome -- just in time to go to the market and restock the kitchen before getting the kids. Charlotte and Olivia had their last piano lesson today. They'll both be performing in a recital next Monday, and then their teacher will be going on vacation for the summer. Avery was super tired and I put him down for a nap around 4:45pm -- he didn't wake up until 11pm, and then only to walk across the hall to my bedroom and lie down next to me for the rest of the night.

Napoli

We slept in and had a late breakfast. It was almost 11am by the time we met Stefano and Charles in the lobby. Fortunately, it was a beautiful day and so we went for a walk. We started by walking up to the Piazza del Plebiscito, an impressive and enormous semi-circular Piazza with the Royal Palace on one side.

Piazza Plebiscito

Then we checked out the Opera house (Teatro San Carlo) and the Galleria Umberto -- a beautiful Belle Époque shopping mall with a 5-story high glass ceiling and glass dome, and lovely marble floors inlaid with mosaics of the astrological signs in the center. We took a peek at the Spanish quarter, and then met Elena at her favorite jewelry store. I was eyeing a ring but it was too big for my finger so I settled on a simple peridot-beaded necklace instead. Finally, we looped back down to the waterfront and back to our hotel to pick up our car. It was time for lunch and Stefano drove us to his favorite sea-food restaurant in Naples, located in Posillipo, right on the water with incredible views. Just a short 5 or 10 minute drive out of the center (or longer depending on the unpredictable nature of traffic in Naples), and it feels as if you are in another world: a tranquil, fishing village with sun-bathers on the rocks.

Vesuvio

The restaurant was Trattoria de Cicciotto, and fresher fish is hard to come by. In fact, it was so fresh we ate it raw. We had a mixed carpaccio plate that included scampi, gamberi, bream and those little tiny fish that are usually fried -- eyeballs and all. Then, to follow the raw antipasti, we enjoyed mussels prepared two different ways, clams, and a whole spigola baked with tomatoes and potatoes. I was in heaven -- the food, the view, the company, the wine -- it was all wonderful.

After our lunch we visited a park called Parco Virgiliano. It was on the top of a cliff and afforded fantastic views of Nisida island, Procida and Ischia. Looking in the other direction, we had a clear view of Mount Vesuvius.

Fausto Coppi
"il Campionissimo"

I came away thinking that Naples is a pretty seaside city; not the stereotypical impression of Naples as a grimey, dirty city with much crime -- but one of beauty and the sea. We drove back down to meet Elena's cousin at the famous grande caffe in Piazza del Plebiscito called Gambrinus. Mario is an archaeologist and a professor at the local university. He agreed to give us a tour, but by the time we'd finished lunch, our time with him was limited. We walked over to the Castel Nuovo and got a brief Napoleonic history lesson. Brief as it was, by the time he had to head for class, I was ready for a nap at the Hotel Vesuvius. In a couple of short hours it would be dinner time again, and I needed to shore up my energy for another Napolitano meal. Josh stayed behind with Stefano in order to check out an exhibit about the Italian cycling hero Fausto Coppi who raced in the 1940's and 50's.

We met Elena and Stefano at Da Umberto in the Chiaia district -- the hip area of Naples for shopping, dining, and bar hopping. I was hard pressed to eat again, but we shared some antipasti including a delicious pizza marinara (lots of garlic). I liked the restaurant and wished I had more of an appetite. After dinner, we strolled along the sea front, back to our hotel.

Giro d'Italia -- Stage 9

First, the kids left for school, then Brad and Janice left for Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast, then Josh and I left too. We were going to see the start of a stage of the Giro d'Italia in Frosinone, and then visit Naples.

We picked up Stefano along with his friend and former professor, Charles. Charles is a professor at the University of San Diego, but lives in Portland, and is on his way to teach a summer course in negotiation at a University in Florence. However, as a cycling aficionado, he was first joining us to catch a part of the Giro. We drove to Frosinone -- only an hour away from Rome -- to see start of today's stage.

La Maglia Rosa -- Alexander Vinokourov

Stefano was able to arrange for all of us to have VIP passes so we could access the "insider" areas where the cyclists sign-in before the race, as well as access the VIP tents. To say that Stefano is well-connected in the world of cycling is an understatement. As a former team manager, he has personal relationships with many of the professional cyclists as well as the management of the Giro race itself. Josh was so "up close and personal" with the riders, it looked like he was going to pee his pants from excitement. But the surprise icing on the cake was when Stefano arranged for a VIP car to take us on the course for the entire race with the riders -- lunch boxes included. Today's stage was a long 187 km. We were able to drive just in front of, and then just behind the break-away group of four. We were also able to drive just in front of the peloton. The drive itself was crazy! Obviously, on a road closed to other traffic, you can pretty much do as you please. At various stages, particularly when we drove through the towns, it felt like we were part of a parade -- so many fans lined the roads; often waving to us as if we actually were VIPs.

The Peloton

But the harrowing drive on twisting streets had me feeling nautious by the end. Half way through the race, the weather changed and there was a tremendous downpour. This created small lakes on the roads. So far this year, it has rained for every stage of the Giro. Today is stage 9.

When we arrived at the finish line -- now ahead of the cyclists -- the car came to an abrupt stop, and the "Giro Girls" opened the doors to allow us to exit quickly. The sides of the road were packed at least 20 deep with fans. We simply walked up a set of stairs and into the mobile VIP lounge that was set up at the finish line. We were served prosecco, and sampled some antipasti or dolci, while we wait for the riders to come across the line. It turned out to be a very exciting finish. The last two riders from the break-away group of four, were caught inside 5km from the finish, and now it was anyone's race. The sprinters were too far back in the pelaton to make a surge for the finish. The leaders ground it out; and wild card, Matt Harley Goss from Tasmania won the stage! Afterwards we walked over to the awards podium to see the respective riders get their jerseys.

The Author all'Arrivo

While Josh, Charles and I had been riding in the VIP car, Stefano had driven our Peugot the 187 km from Frosinone to the finish, so we simply walked to a parking lot and drove out. Although, given road closures and traffic, this was not so simple. It took almost 1.5 hours before we arrived in Naples and Stefano's mother-in-law's house.

We hung out for a bit with the family, and then walked to local pizza place for the real deal -- Pizza Napolitana. I had an excellent meal of pizza alle melanzane. It was almost 10pm by the time we drove to our hotel to check- in. It was an unbelievably, windy, hilly drive to the Hotel Vesuvio. The gentleman at the reception desk was super nice, and showed us half a dozen rooms -- including the Presidential suite -- all with different decor, and allowed us to choose our favorite (excluding the Presidential suite). We settled in to our beautiful sea-view room with a view overlooking the Castel d'Oro. We were totally spent and exhausted from our day following the Giro -- and we weren't the ones on bikes.

First long course swim meet of the season

Charlotte had a swim meet at Aniene today. It was the first outdoor, long course meet of the summer season. Unfortunately, and due in part to the weather, Charlotte had yet to train in the 50 meter pool. Even today's meet looked a little iffy due to the forecast. But we were told they'd swim in rain; as long as there are no thunderstorms.

We were all a little tired this morning, and particularly appreciated the proximity of the meet. Josh and I took Avery and Olivia to watch Charlotte's first event, the 200 Breast. Unfortunately, it looked like Charlotte was a little tired too. It was not her best race. Her whole stroke looked off. So, the four of us returned to the house and had more breakfast.

I returned to the pool to watch her second event, the 100 Fly. This race went only slightly better. Now, being done for the morning session, I brought Charlotte home for lunch. A couple of hours later, I dropped her back off for the warm-up for the afternoon session. This afternoon, she was swimming 200 IM, but not until later in the program. So once, again, I could return home and hang out. It was my third roundtrip of the day, but it was so nice to be able to do it. The weather was bizarre all day; patches of sun interspersed with clouds and rain.

By the time Charlotte was going to swim her last race, Janice and Brad were back from their day's adventure, so aside from Avery who was still napping, we were all there to cheer her on in the 200 IM. It was the best of her three races. At least she REPEATED her time from the Championships last summer. Although, watching her swim the race, there is certainly much room for improvement -- especially in the backstroke leg.

The nice thing about Aniene, aside from the fact that it's 5 minutes from our house, is that there is a cafe and bar upstairs. So while we waited for Charlotte to change (which can often take a very long time) the adults enjoyed a spritz and Olivia had a gelato.

We drove home to collect Avery, who was now playing in the garden with the babysitter, and we all went out for our traditional Sunday night pizza dinner... at Pariolina.

Notte dei Musei

We slept in and had a late breakfast. It was raining...again! We drove to the Campidoglio and dropped Brad and Janice off so they could go to the Capitoline Museum. Apparently, many other visitors were looking for an indoor activity too, and there was a long line for tickets.

Josh and I went to visit the church situated up above the adjacent Piazza Michelangelo -- Santa Maria di Aracoeli. It's located up a very long flight of stairs (124 to be exact) -- enough to dissuade Charlotte from venturing out of the car and into the rain. So we left Charlotte and Olivia in the car and took Avery on our expedition.

Santa Maria di Aracoeli (St. Mary of the altar in the sky) was built on top of the ancient Temple to Juno and dates back to at least the 6th century. It's 22 columns are taken from various ancient building; it has a fabulous fresco by Pinturichio from the 1480's in one of the chapels; and its elaborate ceiling with naval motifs, commerates the Battle of Lepanto (1571) and was commissioned by Pope Gregory XIII Boncompagni who's dragon crest is found near the altar. The church is best known, however, for an icon with apparently miraculous powers --the Santo Bambino -- a 15th century olive wood figure of the Christ child carved out of a tree from the garden of Gethsemane (the original was stolen and a replica now sits in its place). Josh was very taken with this church, and it was really very lovely. We had Avery hunting around for the skull and crossbones carvings on the tombstones located on the marble floor.

By the time we returned to our illegally parked car, the kids were all grumpy and tired. We went home for lunch. Then, Charlotte went to swim practice; Avery took a nap; Olivia played on the laptop; Josh watched the Giro; and I took a bath!

Tonight we went with Brad and Janice to a restaurant in centro called Grana. We all agreed the food was excellent; much better than last night. And, in honor of the Giro finish, we ordered our favorite wine: the Rosso di Montalcino (today's stage was a muddy finish in the town of Montalcino).

Tonight was the Notte dei Musei when all the monuments and museums in Rome are open for free from 8pm to 2am. We had a big evening planned. After dinner, we first we took our guests to see the Pantheon. It was kind of cool to be there while it was raining out since the rain comes right comes in through the oculus. The lack of crowds was also welcome. Then, we walked over to Piazza Navona to see Bernini's Fontana dei Quattro Fiume (representing the Nile, Danube, Ganges and the River Plate). Here, we coordinated a meeting with our friends Jules and Carol along with another high school friend of Josh's who was visiting from L.A. Together, we walked over to visit the Palazzo Altemps.

Afterwards, we left, Jules, Carol and Mark, and drove over to the Mercati di Traiano -- Trajan's market. Built around 100 AD, this structure housed the shopping area for the ancient people of Rome, where free wheat was distributed alongside taverns and grocer's shops. The upper levels of the market were used for offices while the lower part, in front of Trajan's Forum, had shops selling oil, wines, seafood, groceries, vegetables and fruit. Later, medieval houses were built on the top floor. The restoration of these ruins is wonderful and also offers fantastic views of Trajan's Forum and the Vittoriano. Tonight, in honor of the Notte dei Musei, the face of Trajan was projected on to one whole side of the market. Similarly, as we drove by, we noticed that the Piazza on the Campidoglio was completely lit up in blue. Undeterred by the on-and-off-again rain, tons of people out on the street, and many were inside the Museum that is Trajan's Market as well.

By the time we left, it was after 1am, and we were all tired. Time to go home. When we arrived, we were greeted by a couple of slugs in the kitchen; they too needed refuge from all the rain.

Trattoria di Monti

Before setting off for the gym, we had breakfast and directed our guests toward the Vatican. A short while later, Josh received a text from Brad, stating that the power had gone out at the Vatican Museums, and no one was being let in. They ended up waiting in line for an hour and half before things were restored to normal and visitors were allowed to enter. The only good news was that at least it wasn't raining.

After I returned from the gym, I had a quiet afternoon. I had lunch, relaxed, and read a book, and even had a brief nap before going to pick up the kids from school.

Morris came over to babysit tonight so we could go out to dinner. We'd been meaning to try a restaurant -- called Trattoria Monti -- on the "10 best list" located off the tourist path in Esquilino. But first, we had an apertivo of prosecco, and an antipasti of fried zucchini flowers a casa. The restaurant serves primarily Marchegiano food -- from the Le Marche region of Italy. We tried a couple of the Le Marche wines and I was unimpressed. My tortelli (on enormous ravioli filled with egg and spinach) was tasty, but my secondi of fried lamb chops was really horrible. Unfortunately, it seems I just made a bad order since everyone else's food was very good.

Also unfortunate, was that it was pouring rain by the time we'd finished our dinner. It had been raining on and off for most of the afternoon, and didn't make for good "touring Rome" weather. Still, we did a brief car tour up past the Quirinale, and then up the Lungotevere and past the Castel Sant'Angelo and and the Ara Pacis. We're hoping for at least a partially dry day tomorrow.