Back in the U.S. of A

Today is Saturday, August 21st. It's my Dad’s birthday. It also marks the day we returned to our American lives. We were suddenly thrown back into the routine of our lives in Chicago. Josh went on a group ride with his 2CC friends. I went to the farmer’s market. Then later, I went to my Saturday morning yoga class. Wow. A whole year without a sweaty yoga session – I needed it.

This afternoon, I went to my appointment at the Apple store where I had my laptop battery replaced – I’d been having trouble with it all year but couldn’t bear to drive to East Rome to the Apple store there, when I knew it could wait for a short walk down Michigan Avenue. The place was packed – as always. There is certainly no recession at Apple.

Avery had another 3 1/2 hour nap; Charlotte went to a movie with Andgela; Olivia did a home spa science project with Josh. In the evening, the girls went on an outing to play mini-golf with Andgelea and Marco. Josh and I took Avery, and we rode our bikes down to the final concert of the symphony summer series at Millennium Park -- Mahler. It was a beautiful evening and the lawn was crowded. We were strangely focused on all the things the Americans around us were eating.

Needless to say, we already miss the food in Italy; We miss the light in Rome; We miss hearing the language spoken; We miss the coffee although we’ve tried -- unsuccessfully -- to recreate it with our imported macchinetta and Lavazza coffee. Maybe Carlo was right all along ....it’s something about the water?

The duffel bags and boxes in the living room remain untouched. Am I in denial that we had really returned?

Re-entry

I woke up at 6...which under normal circumstances with the time-change would have been a huge victory. BUT, Avery had been up at 2am with diaherrea. Unfortunately, he didn’t make it to the toilet and I had a lake of poop on my bathroom floor that needed to be cleaned up. So in reality, there was not much sleep invovled before 6am.

The kids went to the basement to play. I took my beach-cruiser bike out for a ride around the bike. Eventually, everyone ended up in the playground – it wasn’t 9am yet.

Later in the day, Nina made lunch for the kids. Josh went on a bike ride. I took Charlotte and Olivia to the beach to meet friends. Avery took a 3 ½ hour nap – and that's only because we woke him up. Ewelina came over to see us and brought beautiful orchids. We set up a schedule for next week.

One observation upon re-entry is that EVERYTHING here seems big. The water and wine glasses; the bedrooms; the Refridgerator/Freezer; the cars... just everything is super-sized. At one point during the day I went to the Starbucks to get my emails since we didn't any WiFi hooked up at home yet. The coffee tasted like brown water to me.

I couldn't bear the thought of unpacking. In fact, I was physically unable to unpack because for some unimaginable reason, all the closets were full. How could we have packed up and lived away for a whole year (and with excess clothing), and still have full closets? The duffel bags and boxes in the living room remained untouched today.

Departure Day

We were all up early; had a light breakfast; then checked out and waited for Josh to arrive with the van driver. Avery and I got into the van and headed to the airport. Josh took the girls in the rental car.

At Fiumicino – we had to deal with the logistics of getting all 20 pieces of our luggage inside the terminal with no porter around to help. I think he was "on break." The process was further complicated by having to go through a passport check (with all the luggage) before transporting the luggage yet again to the check-in-counter. Somewhere along the way, we found a porter who was willing to help us.

I am in no way exaggerating when I say that we spent one full hour at the check-in-counter while our luggage was inventoried. I don't think they'd seen anything like it. In the end, we paid 150 euros for putting Josh’s bike on the plane. Otherwise there were no other charges. We moved to and from Italy for 150 euros (aside from the passenger fares, of course).

Once on the plane but before we left the ground, Charlotte said she wanted to tell me something. She told me that she had already spoken to Josh in the room last night and now she wanted to talk to me too. She thanked me for bringing her to Italy. She said it "was the most amazing year of my life." I started to cry.

Meanwhile, Olivia was still not feeling well. She was very lethargic and had not been eating much, but she did not have a fever. Our flight was slightly delayed. I sat with Olivia, Josh sat with Avery and Charlotte was just across the aisle from us. It was a nice flight, but seemed very long. Olivia slept through much of it; Avery didn’t sleep at all; Charlotte watched 3 movies.

We landed at O’Hare and took the 5-mile walk to passport control. Most of our luggage, including the 5 boxes were off the carousel waiting for us once we arrived in the baggage claim area. Now we had the task of moving everything to the curb. We didn't have any problem finding a porter here to help.

Travelling with 20 pieces of luggage is always an attention getting spectacle. The customs guy said “what are you? moving back or something?” Yes, as a matter of fact, we are. We spent some time waiting outside in the Chicago summer humidity. Josh had gone to get the rental car but was turned away when his credit card wasn’t working. In the meantime, our friend Bobby showed up with his SUV and then I left to try my luck at the rental car counter. By the time I got the car, returned to the curb, and the cars were loaded, it was almost 6pm (we’d landed at 4). After we loaded the SUVs, there was limited room for passengers, so I took Charlotte and Avery downtown on the “el” train. I thought Avery would find riding the train fun; plus at rush-hour the cab ride could have easily taken us much longer. Instead, half-way through the subway trip, Avery fell asleep on my lap and then I had to carry him upstairs from the station at Chicago and Milwaukee. It took a few minutes, but we hailed a cab and headed home. Bobby and Josh had just arrived at the same time. Here we were, on Astor Street, in front of our building. Not a thing had changed. It was surreal.

We received such a warm welcome from Nina and her family. The kids had put up signs saying "Welcome Home Rosenberg Family." They all helped us upstairs with our ton of stuff. Everyone was so excited to see each other.

Avery and Olivia went straight to their rooms. Avery took out every single toy from his toy chest and began playing with it. Nina had completely stocked the fridge (including a case of Corona), had cleaned the apartment and arranged flowers in the kitchen. Then she announced that she had prepared dinner for us. She wanted the kids to eat together at her place, and then Josh and I could relax upstairs with stuffed peppers. It was the greatest welcome home ever! Except then Olivia threw up her dinner while still at Nina’s house.

For me it was strange. Everything was the same. Exactly as we’d left it. I felt as if I were here yesterday, and not like we’d been away a whole year. Bizarre.

Arrivederci Roma! -- A sentimental day

After breakfast, Josh and I left the kids at the hotel watching a movie while we went to the bank to close our account. Despite the fact that Josh had called twice to inquire about the procedure and was assured that we just needed to come in and sign a document, when we were seated today, we were informed that it takes a few days to close an account and it can’t possibly be done today.

Long story short, we “deposited” 50euros against any additional purchases and fees that hadn’t shown up yet, and we were able to get the account closed. Any additional funds will be wired back to us in the States. Would this be our final experience with the lack of real-time technology in Italy?

Back at the hotel, we all changed and got ready to go to AquAniene for a swim. Fortunately, Luca tipped us off to the fact that the café was closed this week so we knew to buy more provisions before arriving. The girls swam; Avery didn’t want to wear a swim cap as per the club rules, so he barely got in the water. I enjoyed a sauna – my last at Aniene. Then we had a picnic together in the cafe area.

We returned to the hotel so Avery could nap, and so Josh could make a trip to Stefano’s office where we had stored our belongings while traveling this summer. He needed to take an inventory, and re-pack our bags to prepare for our departure tomorrow. Meanwhile, Avery decided not to take a nap but rather watched a movie with the girls. As such, it was a good thing we talked to Morris today about coming over to the hotel this evening. He ended up babysitting Avery, while Josh and I took the girls to dinner --- La Pariolina, by popular request. On our way over, we called Alessia who was just back from her vacation in Turkey. She and Vittoria (Avery’s classmate) joined us, as did a friend of hers. We had a really good “last supper” and this time I did order the filetto di Manzo. It was really good – not from a Tuscan cow but still really delicious.

After dinner we ventured to the Pantheon for gelato. Josh was anxious to get back to the hotel. Instead of making a trip to Stefano’s tonight, he decided he’d get up early in the morning instead. Tonight, I slept with Avery and Josh shared a room with the girls.

So much to think about for the next day’s logistics, hard to focus on the fact that we were leaving. But I did spend some time out on the balcony of the room just staring out at the quiet streets of the neighborhood.

Leaving Tuscany for Rome

We really didn’t start packing until after breakfast. We thought it would be a leisurely morning and the kids could swim in the pool for the last time while we organized. But in fact, for the first time since we’d arrived, they didn’t want to swim…perhaps, we were leaving just in time. Then, we were surprised when the villa was invaded by the housekeepers who had come to pick up all the linens and begin the cleaning process. Thus, our leisurely packing picked up speed.

Once Josh packed up the car, we drove to the town of Marsiliana to “check out” at the Corsini office. We also hiked up to the castle and, as promised during the olive oil tasting there last week, we were admitted to climb up the tower. At the top, we had wonderful 360degree views of the entire surrounding valley and the sea. Avery was fidgety and Olivia was not feeling well, so we made the visit brief. Then, we began the drive back to Rome.

We were just 60 km outside of Rome when we were pulled over by the Polizia. Josh thought the problem was that he had strapped a duffle bag to the roof. But in fact, the issue was that his bike on the rear bike rack was blocking the car’s license plate. The police insisted he move the bike. The problem was that there was no place to move it to – the car was jammed full of luggage and passengers. Italian law requires that you have a special license plate that goes over the rack in the back. So we agreed to make a make-shift one on a piece of cardboard donated by the gas-station attendant (we had pulled over at a gas station). Good thing Avery had magic markers in his back-pack.

We were back on the road, but not before being issued a 116euro ticket for the infraction. In addition to the errant bike on the back of the car, we were informed that any driver in the EU is obligated to have his/her driver’s license translated into the language of the country in which the car is being driven – now that’s a new one. Needless to say, with all of the languages and drivers in Europe, a logistical nightmare. Could the police have been making this one up?

We arrived at the Polo Hotel in our old Parioli neighborhood just around 4pm. As soon as we’d checked in, I ran over to the market next door to buy sandwich provisions. We hadn’t really eaten much other than grissini (bread stick) for lunch. Going to a restaurant or bar wasn’t an option – everything was closed for the Feragosto vacation. Driving into Rome could not have been easier. There was no traffic. In centro, everything would be business as ususal – but without the Italians. Whereas in the Parioli, it was practically a ghost town.

We decamped at the hotel, took showers, and then headed off in the evening. We drove to Trastevere, but the restaurant we were heading to was….(predictably) closed; one of the few in this neighborhood. So we chose instead Da Luca, a place we’d eaten early on in our Italian adventure. We had come full circle. We had a great dinner except Olivia was still not feeling well and really hadn’t eaten much the entire day. Avery was beginning to tire out. We were going to go to the Tevere river festival but had to opt out in order to get him to bed.

Back at the hotel, Charlotte and I took an excursion around the neighborhood. We found a few things open. Most importantly, we located the Gracchi gelateria on Regina Margherita and found it open. It was really nice to sit alone with Charlotte and enjoy a cone. I think we were both getting nostalgic about the fact that our time in Italy was up.

Charlotte and I shared a room at the hotel tonight. Josh slept with Olivia and Avery in another room.

Podere del Cutignolo - Day 23: Sailing the Argentario

Josh still managed to get a short bike ride in this morning before we set off for sailing. In fact, it could have been a longer ride since our captain, Carlo, ended up having to drive his wife down to Civitavecchia so she could catch a train. In the end, we didn’t leave the villa much before 1pm and our 11am sail ended up leaving closer to 2:30pm. In other words: Italian time.

Still, it was a wonderful day. The sea was perfect, the wind was just right and the boat was a beautiful vessel. I had made a pasta salad for everyone and we picnicked on the boat. Then, we dove into the sea and swam before sailing bit further around the peninsula. We managed to make it back to the port just after 5. Livia had to report to work and we had to get back to our villa to get organized for our departure tomorrow. First, we shopped at Brandy and Melville (Charlotte's favorite store, and where Livia was working as a salesgirl) then we visited the Creola gelateria in Porto Ercole before heading home.

It was our last night in Tuscany. Selvaggia came over to babysit so Josh and I could have dinner out. We went to Capalbio and while we tried to get in to Il Frantoio, we were unsuccessful and ended up at Da Maria. The food was very good although we mistakenly didn’t order the grilled steak which looked excellent as it was served to all the tables around us. Our last night in Tuscany, and we were not experiencing fresh cow…so sad.

After dinner we strolled in to the center of town for a jazz concert. It was really wonderful and a great finish to our fantastic vacation here in the Maremma. 

Podere del Cutignolo - Day 22: Feragusto

The nice weather was back. We all slept in and then had the typical three stages of breakfast. One for Josh and me, then Olivia and Avery, and finally when she was able to rouse herself, breakfast for Charlotte. She didn’t come down until after 11am. Around here, it seems not much happens until after 11am on any given day.

While the storms had passed, the seas were still not calm, so instead of going out on Carlo’s sailboat, Carlo, Nicole and their girls came to our place for a leisurely Feragosto lunch – a tradition in Italy on the 15th of August. We pooled our frigos together to come up with a nice spread (since it was a Sunday AND Feragosto, no markets would be open today).

After lunch, the girls played in the pool, Nicole drove her oldest, Livia to work (at Brandy and Melville) Carlo napped, Josh went on a ride, and I took a bath. Avery napped - but not long enough.

When Josh returned from his ride, we all drove to Orbetello to the Pizzeria for dinner. Avery, exiled to the rear of the wagon due to space considerations was bothersome to everyone in the rear. Even once we arrived in Orbetello, he pulled Olivia’s hair and knocked her down. It was not going to be a good night with Avery – two nights in a row out on the town (even though we were doing a 7:30pm dinner tonight) was too much for him. We strolled to the piazza for gelato after dinner – when it dawned on Avery that he had lost his gelato for bad behavior, he had an absolute fit. Of course.

We said goodbye to Nicole who was going off on a business trip tomorrow. She has been a great friend, and key to our enjoyment of our year here. We would see the rest of her family tomorrow for sailing.