While the Palazzo Altemps did not contain the same density of ancient artifacts and sculptures as the Palazzo Massimo, the Palazzo itself, it's design, it's courtyard and porticos were much more special. The fact that it was a beautiful sunny day only enhanced the experience of taking in the garden frescoes painted on the second floor loggia. The ambience of 16th and 17th century noble living was readily felt. Uniquely, Palazzo Altemps also contains it's own church and a private chapel. The church is quite large and richly decorated and is called Sant Anicento, dedicated to the memory of Robert Altemps (the Cardinal's son), who was sentenced to death by Pope Sixtus V.
The Palazzo itself is a Renaissance palace that was originally built by the Riario family beginning in 1477 although several pre-existing structures dating back to ancient times stood on the site. The mix of architecture is evident in touring the rooms. Additions were made by Cardinal di Volterra Francesco Soderini in 1511, and then the church and other features were built by Cardinal Marco Sittico Altemps in 1568. The Cardinal used the palace as a residence and to display his extensive collection of sculpture. Much of the Altemps collection has since been dispersed and is on display at varous museums around Europe.
The National Museum of Rome bought the Palazzo from the Vatican in the early 1980's and began to restore it. Many of the Palazzo's original frescoes were rediscovered. At the same time, for much of the last century, the State had in storage the lovely sculptures from the Ludovisi collection -- the Ludovisi originally had their own palace, but it was demolished. Palazzo Altemps which lost it's collection of art, would serve as the perfect setting to display the Ludovisi collection, which lost it's Palazzo. The Palazzo Altemps was opened to the public in 1997.
After visiting the Palazzo, I rode over a block or two and sat in the sun-drenched Piazza Navona and had a snack of pizza bianca. The central fountain by Bernini is undergoing it's annual cleaning, but the Piazza still has its charms. Then, I rode over to another of the Museo Nazionale Romano locations, the Crypta Balbi. The site of this unique structure takes it's name from Lucio Cornelio Balbi, who was a famous soldier working first for Julius Caesar and then for Ottavius Augustus. He brought riches to Rome following his conquests of Africa and decided to build a theater which was inaugurated in 14 B.C. This was the third theater built in Rome after Pompeii (remember we had a mediocre dinner one night in restaurant located on top of this excavation) and Teatro Marcellus (where there are nightly concerts in summer). This Theater had an arcade area and within it, a crypta (in latin meaning hidden) named after Balbi from which the museum takes its name.
Excavations begun in 1981 at the Campo Martius have indicated that this very site has continually been used and re-used from ancient times. Two churches with their attending monasteries, one from the medieval period and another from the Renaissance were erected on top of what was once a grain market following it's original use as a theater. The museum undertakes to display the various uses of the site and its artifacts from over 2000 years. Parts of the excavation which lie underground can also be visited. The Crypta Balbi opened to the public in 2000.
Upon leaving the museum, I made my way home by bike, riding through the Villa Borghese. It's as if there were no school in Rome today -- there were so many children and families in the park. Perhaps its the opposite of having a "snow-day;" instead it's a "sun-day" in Februray. I was very happy. It was a very satisfying day of living in Rome.
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