San Quirico d'Orcia, Montalcino and Sant'Angelo in Colle

As soon as we woke up, we descended to take the waters. This time, we went outside into the (newly refreshed) volcanic mineral waters. The water here is rich in salts, calcium, iron carbonates, and magnesium sulfates. There is certainly the distinct scent of sulfur in the pools, and you can see the calcification along several parts of the remaining rock. Two waterfalls were created and serve as an excellent hot shoulder massage.

After the thermal bath, we went to breakfast. The hotel is very much a throwback to the 1920’s. There are several well-appointed sitting rooms around the lobby and the restaurant. One can imagine the hotel full, and people playing cards at one of the many tables, or sipping tea on one of the many sofas. We noticed the waiters had been wearing white jackets and bowties at lunch and dinner, but breakfast was a bit more casual. Unlike the Hotel Les Aiglon where we stayed in Chamonix, here it is strictly forbidden to wear a bathrobe or slippers in any of the public spaces with the exception, of course, of the lowest floor where the thermal baths are located. The whole place has a rather elegant feel to it.

We decided, rather than going back to Pienza today (where we confirmed the Palazzo was once again open), we’d take the longer drive to visit Montalcino and then have lunch at Il Leccio in Sant’Angelo in Colle. This would still allow us to visit Pienza tomorrow before the drive back to Rome.

San Quirico d'Orcia

On our way to Montalcino, we stopped for what we thought would be a quick look at the town just up from Bagno Vignoni, San Quirco d’Orcia. What we found was a very special place. This particular town, along with the entire Val D’Orcia, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In a minute, we could see why. It has retained all of its originality and charm. It has the pre-requisite churches, palazzos and more. It has an incredible garden. Nearby, we found a playground full of children. When Josh inquired, we were told that school has been out for the past three days – in part due to the weather, because the school was suffering from some electrical problems.

Back in the car, we drove the 16 km to Montalcino. We were last here in the fall of 2006 when we were celebrating our 10th anniversary at the Castello di Vicarello. We visited the Fortress and the two Piazzas, we reminisced about our last visit. Montalcino’s position on the hilltop affords some really amazing views. And, the town itself is quite hilly. This time, we happened to park right near the Coop, so we went shopping. One bottle of 2000 Brunello di Montalcino, a few samples of pecorino, a toothbrush and some body lotion later; we were back in the car on our way to lunch.

Continuing our “homecoming” we chose Il Leccio in Sant’Angelo in Colle for lunch because we’d enjoyed a memorable dinner there three and a half years ago. Unfortunately, this time we found the church in the main (and only) square was undergoing restoration and was covered in scaffolding. But inside, the restaurant was just as we’d remembered it. It seems we didn’t need to reserve as there was just one other gentleman in the establishment, and he appeared to be concluding his meal, digestive in hand, having finished almost an entire bottle of wine.

As we found out, Franco is Florentine, but has a country home not far from here where he also hosts paying guests. He could not have been a more affable man and we spent the entire two our meal discussing (in Italian) various philosophical issues such as life in Italy, immigration and winemaking. From time to time, our Moroccan server would give his point of view. All the while, Josh and I were enjoying a delicious lunch: Josh had the pork, and I had the veal. Amazing! At the end of our meal, Franco, who is a regular at Il Leccio, went down in to the wine cellar and brought up a bottle of 1997 Mastroianni Brunello di Montalcino and put it on our table. “This is a gift from me,” he said. We were floored – as was the server who proceeded to tell us that 1997 was one of the top three vintages of the century! -- 1955, 1964 and 1997. We tried not to accept such a generous gift, but our new friend, Franco, insisted. After we exchanged emails, addresses and took photos, we were on our way.

Sant'Antimo

We had one more stop before returning to Bagno Vignoni and Posta Marcucci for our bath: Sant’Antimo – a church from the 9^th century set in the valley of Sant’Angelo in Scale. This was another recreation from our 2006 tour. But this time, it was sunny and bright; last time we were here we it was rainy and dark.

Back at Posta Marcucci, we swam in the thermal pool, steamed and took a sauna. Being a Friday, the place had filled up for the weekend and we could no longer claim ownership of the facilities. Today, after our nap, we were able to enjoy the remnants of our wines from the past three meals – along with our haul of pecorino from the Montalcino coop. In Italy, there is no question that if you don’t finish a bottle, you take it with you. So, we sat in bed, drinking wine, eating pecorino and watching Letterman!

At 9pm, Josh announced that he could have a bit of meat for dinner. And, off we went for our ritual pre-meal walk around the ancient pool. Tonight we decided to return to Osteria de Leone, scene of our first lunch. I could only manage two sides tonight, but Josh, disappointed there was no pig on the menu, opted for rabbit – a very flavorful one. Without a main course, I felt entitled to a dessert. Since nothing on the menu seemed super appealing, we walked around the corner to Le Terme and had a dessert and a grappa at the bar. Thankfully, I felt a lot less full when I went to bed.