Ostia Antica

Just 30km from Rome, Ostia was a thriving port city dating back to the 7th century B.C.!! On Sunday, we decided to visit this ancient city to see the ruins. In addition to the ruins, Ostia boasts a medieval castle which we thought would be cool for the kids to see.

We visited the castle first, but unfortunately the top floor (which apparently had just been struck by lightning) was closed and much of the rest of the castle was a non-event. By now, everyone was hungry for lunch so we landed in a fancy pizzeria. At 12:30, we were the first guests to arrive. The pizza maker had just begun to warm the oven with hot embers. This is the thing about lunch in Italy, no one eats it before 1pm. And even at 1pm, you're early.

After we ate, we were off to Ostia Antica. The city - and therefore it's ruins - are vast, at least by ancient standards. From the entrance to the other end of town was easily 5k (so 10k round trip). First you pass by the cemetery and tombs. Then there is a section of some warehouses before you get to the baths and the gym. Yes, even the ancient Romans knew about exercise and sauna! These were the formal baths and the mosaics on the floors were largely intact and beautiful. Shortly, you come to the amazing (Greek) Theater and it's surrounding temples. The kids had fun putting on a mock show on the stage (this was a new stage which appeared to be currently in use).

Further down the road was the commercial area of Ostia. The residences are thought to have been situated above the shops. Then there were more public baths and of course, my favorite, the public lavatories. We located them just in time because Avery really needed to pee.

I found the ruins fascinating. I loved imagining the people of that time, dressed in togas, carrying about their daily business. At the fish-mongers shop, there was a stone tank built out from the wall and across from it, a marble table that was used for cleaning the fish. It was like it could have been used yesterday, not 2000 years ago.

Despite all of my excitement (or maybe in spite of it), Josh (his leg still on the mend) and the kids were wiped out. It's not easy to walk on those ancient roads of stone. Olivia stumbled on the way back and badly skinned her knee. With all the scrapes and bruises she's sustained since we arrived in Italy, her legs look like that of an ancient warrior(ess).

Upon returning to our villa, it was nap time! Morris arrived at 5pm to make dinner and we relaxed in the garden and enjoyed our meal. Tonight was Kol Nidre, and so it should've been our last meal before the fast...

While the kids watched a movie, Josh and I went out for a passeggiata (a little walk). We shared a gelato near Campo de Fiori and then walked towards the Synagogue. Services had let out and the Jewish community of Rome was hanging out. No where to go and nothing to do (you can't eat), but stand around and socialize with each other. Everyone looked happy. Security was heavy around the Synagogue - in fact we were not allowed to enter the perimeter.

On the other side of the Synagogue, is the Teatro de Marcello, where tonight was the last night of the outdoor music series. So we stood and watched a pianist, oblivious to the throngs of Jews kibbitzing nearby, playing Chopin to a relatively small audience.

It's always wonderful to stroll around Rome in the evening - you never know what you'll find.