Sunday, October 25, 2009

Puglia vacation - Day 2: Fasano and Alberobello

We were wondering what was up with breakfast before we were reminded that the clocks were set back an hour last night and we were asking for coffee before 8am on a Sunday. We thought it was 8:50am but it was actually 7:50am. Still, it was sort of an odd breakfast as we had to keep asking: do you have this? Or, is it possible to have that? We ended up with a plate full of hot croissants -- like a dozen of them –- along with some jam and nutella. We also were served one omelet for the 5 of us (later we found out that a carton of eggs was dropped on the floor so that was all for the eggs), a basket full of rolls, cream cheese and a plate of prosciutto. There was also a bowl of whole fruits and we asked for water and several coffees. We were the only guests having breakfast although we heard there was one other couple staying at La Boezia. It was a strange but friendly breakfast, and we were trying to go with the flow.


Meanwhile the kids made friends with Bianca, the dog, and were running around the courtyard playing with her. Olivia was having so much fun she asked if we could stay at the hotel all day and play. Didn’t she want to go to the ZooSafari? No.


But off to Fasano and the ZooSafari we went – with everyone in tow. First we drove to the shore. A 5 minute drive from the Masseria and we were on the Adriatic. It was windy, and rocky and wonderful. Then we drove to the Zoo. We didn’t know what to expect, and when we arrived, it looked too gimmicky and touristy to be good, and with a hefty entrance fee of 18euro per person. But here we were, so in we went. Once inside, the Safari was super cool. We were really very close to the Lions, Tigers, Elephants, Camels, Giraffes, Ostriches, Bison, Rams, and more. The kids had a ball. The Giraffes and ostriches licked and pecked at our car. The lambs and rams sat in the road and wouldn’t let us by. It was great…and smelly.

After the “Safari” portion, we parked our car and walked in to Zoo portion of the park. Our tickets included a train ride around the zoo where we saw polar bears, rhinos and hippos. Then we boarded a different train to go out in to the baboon park (it was more like a dirt field). In this train, the windows and door were like cages in and there were ledges on the sides. This way, the baboons came up and sat next to us on the train and waited for someone to feed them crackers. The kids thought the whole thing was a riot. Definitely worth 18 euro per person.

Now, in search of nourishment, we took the back roads and followed signs to a restaurant called La Arcate. It sounded good. When we pulled in and noticed the children’s play area out front, we knew it was a good pick. But inside, it looked like they were having a private party. Yes, it was a baptism celebration but others were welcome. In fact, there were a couple of other tables having lunch that were not connected to the party.

We ate well. Absolutely delicious antipasti were presented on the table. Then we had two different pasta dishes and a salad. To finish, we all shared a couple of chocolate soufflés. The folks at Le Arcate could not have been nicer. We wish we could go back for their Halloween festival menu on the 31st…or any other time. The whole experience was a delight – playground included.


By now, we were feeling a little tired. But we had Alberobello on the itinerary. Alborobello is know for the Trulli structures that dot the landscape in Puglia. Josh had fond memories of Alberobello and the conical roofed Trulli. Unfortunately, he found that things had changed in 20 years and the quaint town had become a tourist trap. The Trulli were all turned in to souvenir shops. Still, even for a first-timer, the density of Trulli in this town were interesting to see. We did a quick walk around and then headed back to Masseria Boezio.

It seems everyone was as excited about the enormous bathtub as I was. After I enjoyed a relaxing bath, Josh jumped in with Olivia and Avery, then Charlotte decided to take a bath as well. Since it’s been too chilly to swim here, I think everyone enjoyed the small pool/large tub as a substitute.

We ate dinner at the Masseria. It’s a perfect place for the kids to run around the courtyard and the olive grove and play with the dogs while the adults can sit and enjoy a meal. Who would have thought that Avery, so afraid of every dog in Chicago, would now be begging to go and play with Bianca and the other big dog at the Masseria, Alli. Better yet, who would have thought that we’d be listening to our children, running around yelling commands in Italian: “vieni qui!” “vai!” “seduto!” and “aspetta!” What a trip.

Olivia, especially, developed a real connection to Bianca, and Bianca loved Olivia. Intermittently, Olivia would run over and ask Josh how to say something in Italian. Because the dog would understand her if she spoke in Italian. Very cute, indeed!

Still full from lunch, we asked for not too much food. We ended up with pork chops, and french fries and salad, along with beans and cheese.

Tonight, for the first time since arriving in Italy, we watched American TV! We watched 30 Rock and the Tonight Show. Just like old times.

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